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Mount Abbot Climber's Log

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colinrWith Mills  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2017


Posted Oct 6, 2017 1:11 am

Bill562NE Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2017


Team of three, camped at Mills Lake
Posted Sep 18, 2017 3:18 pm

CWesselsNE Buttress  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2016


I climbed what Secor calls the "northeast buttress" (class 4), which is the ridge just south of the north couloir. This allowed me to bypass the snow entirely. He says there is a lot of loose rock on this route, but I found the loose stuff to be avoidable and the underlying rock to be very solid. As a result, I enjoyed this climb very much. I descended the north couloir, which was a dreadfully crappy rock-sand-scree slipfest; I must say that the buttress was far more pleasant, and in hindsight I wished I had used it for descent as well. The buttress wasn't very difficult or scary for a class 4 route. I would not hesitate to recommend it to people who usually stick to class 3 (like myself), especially considering the alternative couloir which, as I said, was a loose and unpleasant route.

But the one good thing I'll say about the north couloir is that the upper ridge section is pretty nice (albeit short).
Posted Aug 22, 2016 2:55 am

mengboNE couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2016


an enjoyable trip with jean.
Posted Jul 18, 2016 2:44 am

FairweatherNE Couloir day hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013


Fun day, with minimal snow/ice.
Perfect weather. Solo.
Posted Oct 17, 2015 7:55 pm

BobD3NE Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014


Mud soup in the couloir, sandy rounded ledges on the traverse out of the couloir that were absolutely horrible, very nice upper half. Register was missing. Views were absolutely stunning thanks to great weather.
Posted Oct 5, 2015 9:52 pm

charitydominicFun in Spring!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2008


What a fun climb! Time it just right so you can use the snow rather than the gravel slog.
Posted Oct 30, 2014 6:14 pm

HohnikerSlushy mess coming down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013


Climbed NE couloir solo during a california heat wave. Got an early start at 4am but snow up the couloir was soft enough not to need crampons. By the time I came down, the snow was so soft and unstable that I had to arrest myself twice. Other than that, beautiful climb.
Posted Sep 25, 2013 6:27 pm

RomainNortheast Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2013


With Robert Zeithammer. Nice route in the early season.
Posted Sep 17, 2013 4:58 pm

DonnoNE Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2001


W/ Laura
Posted Aug 13, 2013 11:28 am

DebAwesome!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 18, 2013


Fantasticly hair-raising day with Patrick and Pat doing the NE couloir with soft snow, then the sketchy Class 3/4 loose mess. Descending the same way and it wasn't so scary... ? Glad to have finally tagged this baby via the couloir.
Posted May 19, 2013 1:22 pm

jonclimbingonNE Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012


Camped at Mills Lake. The low snow made crossing the moraine a real chore. The couloir was icy in sections but easily avoidable, rock fall was minimal. Weather was perfect, clear skies, calm breeze. Summited with Michael, both our first 13K. Awesome route.
Posted Sep 16, 2012 12:31 pm

Darren9NE Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2012


Great moderate route done in winter, provided fun snow climbing, mixed scrambling and some great exposure and amazing views.
Posted Mar 8, 2012 10:05 pm

WayneFryNE Couloir from Mills  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2012


We started our trek from Rocky creek sno-park. Hiked in four miles to Mosquito flat, then another two miles to base camp (Mills lake). Hit the trail at 5am the next morning and summited Abbot by 1pm. Great climb with some steep sections and good scrambling near the top. Looking forward to coming back some day to take a shot at the Abbot direct route or Mills.
Posted Mar 7, 2012 12:21 am

MarekBN couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2012


Excellent climb with SMG
Posted Mar 6, 2012 2:00 am

krrt2000NE Couloir
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2011


Posted Feb 16, 2012 11:50 pm

seanoNorth Couloir solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2011


Mostly snow and neve, with a spicy rock finish including a cool tunnel. There was a bit of fresh snow on the rock, so I climbed with my crampons on. Trip report
Posted Feb 4, 2012 2:08 pm

router1998North Couloir from Mills Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2011
We planned this climbing for our SW release name Mount Abbot. The weather is great after a week of storm weather. There are good snow coverage from lake.
We started from Mosquito flat trail head at noon time and camped in Mills Lake. The campsite is pretty good.
We started the hike at 7:00am. We tried to walk on left side of lake and tried to avoid the snow. It is a mistake. We have to walk down to snow bank and put the crampon on.
The snow is soft under sunshine and I slipped once and self arrested. The scrambling part is ok in general. I lost the cairnes couple times and have to go back. After the exposure bridge area, the top part is easy. No wind and a beautiful day.
back to trail head at 5:30pm and drove back to Bay area.
Posted Sep 21, 2011 2:06 am

bc44caesarNorth Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011


Climbed from Dade Lake. Traverse to Abbot was pretty straightforward, although there were a lot of annoying penitentes. Scrambling to the ridge was dirty and mostly cl. 2. The catwalk part is fun, then a short slog to the summit. Great views, decent route.
Posted Aug 13, 2011 12:36 pm

96avs01NE Coulie  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011


Great daytrip up the NE Couloir via Ruby Lake. Travel above Ruby Lake was on nearly 100% snow.
Posted Aug 8, 2011 11:45 am

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