Mount Abi

Overview

Mt.Abi is a nice mountain for Alpine style climbing, it is a rock-ice mixture mountain in Shuangqiao valley of Qionglai mountain chain. The most famous mountain near by is Mt.Fourgirls. It is showed us that the mountain is a virgin in SMA's document, but I was told by the boss of Rocked Ice Bar there were a couple of French climber summited it without permission last year.But they left nothing, include footprint and useful information:) In my opinion, this mountain is a class 4 plus(compare with the third-girl of Fourgirls). According to the lackness of information. I don't think it is a popular mountain.

Getting There

Bus from Chengdu--Xiaojin in Chadianzi Bus station, and get off in Rilong in the first day (8.5usd/p.p). Go to Rocked Ice Bar and ask the boss help to buy entrance fee for Shuangqiao valley(Mr.Tang is the only one who can speak good English in Rilong), 10usd/p.p, and rent a mini bus for the next day driving from Rilong to Shuangqiao valley. Shuangqiao valley has a good condition cement road, there is a tibetan house near the Abi Shan landscape stop(the local tour bus transfer tourist into Shuangqiao valley, they have some stops named after the landscape point). Mt. Abi is on the left hand(you can find clear trail lead to the peak), you can choose the grassland near the cement road for setting BC, or walk approach to the peak and find a higher place. snow line:4300m tree line:3900m glacier:4800--5100m Rock/Ice mixture: 5100m--summit.

Red Tape

Summit fees required only for foreigners, local people climb for free(I am lucky to be a Chinese). Public bus goes to Rilong anytime, in winter the same, the drivers are just like mail man. And the road in Shuangqiao valley no problem, in winter you do not need to take the tour bus from the entrance, but in summer it is a "must". Entrance fee 10usd/p.p, tour bus 10usd/p.p. Local goverment charges about 1.5 usd/p.p/p.d.

When To Climb

In winter the snow condition is better than in summer, and in summer rock falls often, more dangerous. I guess the best season for climbing is the end of Nov or early Dec.

Camping

Is camping allowed in the area? Once you pay fees you can On the mountain? No problem Any huts? Only by the cement road, belong to local cowboys

Mountain Conditions

I post this mountain in www.emg.com.cn, but it is a Chinese website. If some guys want more information, Email to me or to my friend Shama: keenarrow@hotmail.com shama.nosu@gmail.com, 86-28-88055460