MOUNT EMILIUS South-southwest & South Walls First Ascent, 1986

MONT EMILIUS (3559m) West-southwest (left), Southwest (center) and South (right) Faces

Western- southwestern, Southwestern & Southern Walls First Ascent.

***

A and B: From left or West EMILIUS WESTERN RIDGE, WEST-SOUTHWESTERN, SOUTHWESTERN & SOUTHERN FACES

(1) W Arête (in final part from Little Emilius): Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele, Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich Valtournenche Mountain Guides; Aug 30th, 1897; difference in level 650m (450+200m); PD/PD+/AD-.

(27bis) South Rib of "Red Turrets" (about 3.450/60m) and W Crest: Osvaldo Cardellina and Alessandro Cardellina; Aug 10th, 1994; d. in lev. 340/50m (230/5+110/5m; PD/PD+/PD-/AD-/AD. (Route 27bis or between routes 27 (Via Corona) and 23 (Western Ridge).

(It. or basis C)C and B: (27) W-SW Wall and S-SW Slope and W Crest ("Passaggio Corona" – "Corona Passage"): Giuseppe Corona, Venanzio Defey and Grégoire Comé; Sep 09th, 1875; d. in lev. 330/40m (190+100+40/50m); PD/PD+/F+. First solo: Osvaldo Cardellina, Oct 04th, 1992, in day from Pila.

(26) S-SW Wall of "Great Pillar" and W Arête (Integral and Pillar Direct Line to "Grey Fall" and W Crest, new route in left): Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; Oct 11th, 1986; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400/410m (350/60+50m); AD+/AD/AD+.

C: (25quater) S-SW Little "Broken Pillar" and S Slope (Direct Line Little Pillar to Summit, new route in right by route of 1994): Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; October 07th, 2009, in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400m (250+150m); AD-/AD/AD+/D-/D/D+/PD-/F .

C: From left or Southwest EMILIUS SOUTHERN SLOPE

(25ter)B: S-SW Wall on "Pear Pillar" and S Slope (Direct Line on S-SW Ribbing pear-shaped, new route, in left by route of 2007): Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; June 19th, 1994; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 500m (300+200m); AD-/AD/AD+/PD-/F+.

(always Route 25) South Slope on "Sinuous Little Pillar" (S Slope and W Crest, new route between 25 bis and 25 ter to the left by route of 2006): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Jul 07th, 2007; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 480/90m (260/70+220m; PD/PD+/AD-/AD+/D-/AD-/PD-/F+.

(always Route 25) South Slope on "Large Pillar" (S Slope and W Crest, new route in left, by routes of 1984 and 1990): Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; October 28th, 2006, in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400m (250+150m); AD-/AD/AD+/D-/D/D+/PD-/F . new route < between 25 bis and july 2007).

***

October 11th, 1986

Photo

by

Osvaldo Cardellina