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SE pdx climberRoute Climbed: Leutholds Couloir Date Climbed: May 1st  Sucess!

SE pdx climber

We left Timberline at 10:30 AM on Saturday in the middle of a cloud. It looked as if our chances for summiting were slim to none. Many chose not to even go up that day. We intended to camp at Illumination Saddle that night and depart for the couloir at around 3 AM. Remarkably, as we neared the top of Palmer we broke through the clouds, and began to get glimpses of the upper portions of the peak. Soon after though, a more menacing band of clouds approached with definite precip on the way. We decided to set up camp just above Palmer before making the traverse over to the saddle. As it turned out the weather stayed decent until around 8 that night, when the sleet and snow returned. I was lulled to sleep by the pattering of the sleet and snow on the tent. At this point I thought we'd be lucky just to salvage a south side attempt, but lo and behold, when we awoke at 3:30 Sunday morning, the sky was clear, except for a cloud cap on the summit. Leutholds was a go. The earlier snowfall and subsequent freeze had left the route in excellent condition. The Reid glacier was completely bridged still, the hourglass was spotty in places, but our crampons were able to get good purchase throughout. The hourglass has been carved out by a deep runnel; we had to sort of pinch ourselves up and through between the rock wall and a band of ice and snow. Once to the Queens Chair we were unbelievably once again inside a ping-pong ball...visibility was zilch. We crossed the summit ridge in a thick cloud, unable to see the precarious drops on both sides of us -perhaps for the best. We set up a couple pickets along the way. After a short stay on the summit (we were alone), we began a slow, laborious descent down the pearly gates and hogsback in virtually zero visibility conditions. As we were not certain where the bergshrund was, and the route condition was still an unknown, we set a few ice screws in the gates and pickets down the hogsback. A few years ago these conditions would of panicked me, but it's pretty hard to get lost between the summit and Crater rock; plus we had GPS to back us up. All in all it was thrilling, adventurous climb. I wish I would of used more sunscreen though....man did I underestimate those UVs!
Posted May 4, 2005 6:39 pm

mntnrmichaelRoute Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: April 29, 2005


White-out conditions, and blowing ice the whole time. We made it to the bergshund, having difficulty finding the right edge of the bergshund and not wanting to risk it we turned back.

A great experience none the less.

Posted May 3, 2005 11:52 pm

roger3kRoute Climbed: South Date Climbed: April 28, 2004  Sucess!


Delayed start for 2 hours due to white out, by the time we made the top of Palmer clear skies and had the WHOLE MOUNTAIN to ourselves.
Posted May 3, 2005 2:16 am

wildstarRoute Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: April 23, 2005  Sucess!


We summited about sunrise with a lot of wind on the way up and it snowed all the way down so I didn't get good pictures on this trip. Maybe next time.
Posted Apr 23, 2005 8:55 pm

Still TruckinRoute Climbed: South Hogsback Date Climbed: 14 Jun 2000  Sucess!
Left from Timberline Lodge at midnight, full moon, never used my headlamp, was on the summit at 0940. I know that's slow...but so am I! Shared the summit with a wedding party toasting the B&G with the bubbly. Great weather up and down.
Posted Apr 19, 2005 4:05 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: S. Side-Hogsback Date Climbed: March 6, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed with Andre, Marta and Carolyn. After tagging and turning with Andre on our summit 2 years ago due to weather, we were rewarded with stunning vistas of the Cascade volcanoes from Rainier south.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:31 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: South Side-Hogsback Date Climbed: June 30, 2002  Sucess!


Climbed with Andre right after NTSB opened mountain after completing helicopter rescue crash investigation. Chopper dispatched to rescue/retrieve injured and dead in fall above shrund. Icy above the shrund on our climb. Weather deteriorated and tagged and turned at the summit.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 1:33 pm

easleygoneRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: July 1988  Sucess!
A truly great mountain to climb, but much more

dangerous to the beginner climber than it

appears. The icy conditions near the top are

the cause of many accidents. I saw tourists in

cut-off jeans and sneakers trying to claw their

way to the top!! No problems for experienced

Posted Apr 12, 2005 11:48 pm

AlpinistRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: April 9, 2005  Sucess!


What an awesome climb! We broke through the cloud layer at 8,000' just as the sun was rising. The ice formations around the crater were truly spectacular to see with fresh snow and clear blue skies.

Here is my full trip report with some pics.

Posted Apr 11, 2005 1:16 am

modeboyRoute Climbed: south side Date Climbed: 03-12-2005  Sucess!
left around 4:30am from the lodge. nice weather up with some wind. quite a few parties climbing that day. the crevasse is almost completely open now. actually went left of the gates through a small chute due to all of the teams going up and down at the same time. lots of ice fall. summited about 8:30am. great weather on the top. overall a great day.
Posted Mar 15, 2005 8:10 pm

yayoubetchaRoute Climbed: South Side/Hogsback Date Climbed: March 7, 2005
I read a recent summit log posted by Noah (Oregon) about the conditions on Mt. Hood. I decided to climb it while I still had the chance (on snow). I left this morning at 2:15am and the temperature was about 40 degrees (f). The snow was soft for most of the route. When I reached the Hogsback, the sun was just starting to shine on it and the Pearly Gates. As I approached the Pearly Gates, I felt like a pin at the business end of a bowling lane. There were many soft-ball sized chunks of Ice the p-gates were throwing directly at me. When I saw the bowling ball sized chunk of ice heading diretly toward me at the base of the Pearly Gates, I had to drop and protect myself with my pack. Since I forgot my helmet, I decided to head down, and the day was just getting warmed up. The snow bridge is still good direclty on the ridge of the hogsback. Not so good a few feet down either side..
Posted Mar 7, 2005 8:33 pm

ChuckORoute Climbed: SouthSide/HogsBack Date Climbed: 5MAR05  Sucess!


Excellent climb, weather, partners, and Oregon SummitPoster's as hosts!
Posted Mar 7, 2005 6:51 pm

nebbenRoute Climbed: South side/Hogsback Date Climbed: February 26, 2005  Sucess!


Started at 2:10AM, topped out by 7:15 I think? No ropes, excellent weather, views, awesome people to keep me from killing myself. Will try this again someday.
Posted Mar 1, 2005 4:37 pm

Noah (Oregon)Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: Feb. 26, 2005  Sucess!

Noah (Oregon)

This was my fifth time on the South Side and the first time I've done this route "alone," though we usually don't rope up anyway. I was solo but there were plenty of interesting folks to talk to going up (and down). It was nearly a full moon and it made the route beautiful and somewhat other-worldly. I didn't even mind the snowcats down on Palmer. Days like this one were made for climbing and nothing can steal the good vibe, heck, even the walk back down was nice. However, if you think you are going to walz over the Bergschrund in a month or two, you are crazy. The climbing season is now, not in May and June like the books tell you. It is going to be brutally devoid of snow up there this year, so if you want to climb Hood in '05, strike while the iron is hot, go now. If you want to go rock collecting, just wait a month or two.
Posted Feb 27, 2005 5:08 pm

puddlecruiserRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: July/Aug 2000  Sucess!


Solo trip with my backpacking gear and pitched alpine camp on a ridgeline perch to the west of Crater Rock. My best campsite yet, watching the glow of Portland as the sun set. Heavy winds (50-70mph?) meant I slept through/didn't hear a helivac on the Hogsback Route the next morning. Apparently a rockfall had hit someone and broke their pelvis. Hogsback route was so frequently travelled that footprints had been pressed into the snow the entire way up the mountain.
Posted Feb 22, 2005 10:17 am

skyhighRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2005  Sucess!
Unbelievable weather. You could see the buildings in downtown Portland. 40+ degrees at the top. Some ice at the top of the Hogsback and up.
Posted Feb 21, 2005 10:22 pm

BlakesterRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: MArch 2004  Sucess!


We did this on a clear night under a full moon, which made the monotonous lower sections pretty scenic.
Posted Feb 14, 2005 8:53 pm

vertxRoute Climbed: West Crater Rim Date Climbed: February 12, 2005


Or at least that was the plan... White out conditions with sustained winds over 20mph. A fun day if you like blowing ice/snow and twenty foot visibility. We missed the beautiful weather the three days before and ended up backing off before the summit. It made for some interesting navigation and climbing though. A good day even though no one made the top. Hood won this battle, but I'll be back.
Posted Feb 12, 2005 8:11 pm

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: well, we tried 2 Date Climbed: February 3, 2005

Brian Jenkins

David Kantola and I tried to do Leuthold during an unbelievable weather window in February. Actually it was too warm. When we hit Illumination Saddle and heard all the ice falling down the Reid, we opted to maybe try a variation of the South Side. Got to the bergschrund at what, 10,800 feet? Ice falling down through the Pearly Gates going both ways around the Hogsback. Decided to not deal with the ice for another South Side summit so headed back down. Conditions were more July-like (see thread) so if you are heading up, you may want to start a couple hours earlier than you think you have to this time of year, at least until we get some real winter conditions in the Oregon Cascades.
Posted Feb 3, 2005 7:34 pm

Andy DeweyRoute Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: 2001  Sucess!

Andy Dewey

Awesome weather and views, crowds were very bad.
Posted Feb 3, 2005 3:06 pm

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