Mount Hood Climber's Log
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|Vinny||ski descent |
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009
|Started late and finished early to let snow soften for the boards. I downclimbed first pitch- watched Oyvind and Dave rip it up.|
Lots of people en route. Good times after the MRA conference
|Posted Jul 2, 2009 7:11 pm|
|scottmitch||Old Chute |
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2009
|Fun climb nice views.|
|Posted Jun 30, 2009 3:33 pm|
|sourstraw||old chutes |
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009
|Great climb in perfect weather. Climbed with my cousin ... brought rope, but didn't end up using it, as we felt more comfortable unroped. This was my first time on Hood ... we accidentaly missed the popular trail in the dark (Sunday night - only a few other climbers on the mountain, and most were below us), and ended up climbing over the Bergschrund on the Hogsback, and then having to traverse across the steep face to access the old summit chutes. Added for a bit of excitement, which we needed after climbing up the deathly boring ski slope! Great climb - sunrise was incredible, with an INCREDIBLE shadow of Mt. Hood cast upon the valley below!|
|Posted Jun 30, 2009 1:31 pm|
|gcap||old chute |
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009
|Late start, planned on just making the crater. Got to crater quickly, snow still solid, made summit. stuff started melting out on descent. Car-to-Car (timberline parking) in 5.5 hours. Great weather, great day.|
|Posted Jun 29, 2009 12:17 pm|
|damgaard||Old Chute |
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2009
|3,5 hours from Timberline up and 2 hours down. Weather was superb, sunny and no wind, and clouds only up to Timberline, so only Adams and the rest of the volcanoes were visible. Soloed old chute, where there were nice steps. Started at 2 am.|
|Posted Jun 19, 2009 12:27 pm|
|dirth||Lazy Route |
Date Climbed: May 30, 2009
|I took Timberline extending my spring pass for a few weeks to be a sign that I was meant to ride lifts up to 8600 feet... Summited around 11:30 and snowboarded down the west face of the crater. Really fun trip.|
|Posted Jun 9, 2009 4:20 pm|
|bighornmonkey||Pearly Gates |
Date Climbed: May 30, 2009
|Climbed a variation of the Hogsback route through the Pearly Gates. It involved 1 pitch of AI2. Well worth doing to avoid the Saturday crowd.|
|Posted Jun 1, 2009 2:35 am|
|gwave47||Great Snow |
Date Climbed: May 30, 2009
|Great Snow... good bit of traffic, but still very enjoyable.|
|Posted May 30, 2009 9:59 pm|
|Bruce Christensen||Hogsback crawling with ants |
Date Climbed: May 28, 2009
|Summitted yesterday a bit before 5:30 a.m. on the SS Hogsback route. We were the first ones up there, other than a solo climber. Definitely not the last, though—we counted 75 people at one point!|
Most people were taking the main Old Chute route. We headed left from the Hogsback and hugged the cliffs, taking the 2 o'clock (first, climber's rightmost) couloir to the summit ridge. I probably wouldn't recommend that, though, due to risk of ice/rockfall.
Not much ice was falling when we went up, other than small, harmless crystals, but we were up there early. We crossed a couple places were there was a constant flow of small ice crystals coming down.
Safest route right now is to head left (west) immediately after reaching the top of the Hogsback, then cross the bare rock near the fumaroles, then up the Old Chute. That will keep you out of the way of most ice/rockfall.
|Posted May 29, 2009 12:42 pm|
|junoiceclimber||1, 2, 3... Stay on your feet |
Date Climbed: May 18, 2009
|Three people were injured and two took major slides on consecutive days on this weekend. Two of the three made the paper as airlift rescues and the last one walked away from the Hogsback under his own power.|
One person was hit by falling ice suffered substantial leg injuries rendering her incapable of walking away from the Cathedral Rock area. Another guy slipped, shot 500 ft out of the Devil's Kitchen, and sustained serious facial, wrist, and leg injuries. Lastly a climber, just five minutes behind me was knocked off his feet by a careening dinner plate and slid, unharmed, 200 ft back down to the start of the Hogsback. Witnessing this incident occur, 14 climbers turned around to descend.
Without knowing that such drama was happening, I witnessed an ice wheel go zinging down the mountain just meters away, and then, seconds later, took a baseball size chunk of ice in the chin and mouth, thinking it broke several of my front teeth. I (literally) poured on the speed to get up and out of the gully to reach the safety of the summit ridge.
The summit was amazing, not a cloud in the sky. All the big Cascades were visible, including Shasta!! To top it all off, I had good cell coverage and called my wife back in Juneau with a wake up call.
On the descent, I moved quick to get down without incident. I descended the Old Chute in a face first clipity clop and literally ran the traverse to reach the Hogsback without incident.
|Posted May 19, 2009 12:06 pm|
|oso1212||Sandy Glacier Headwall |
Date Climbed: May 17, 2009
|We started at 2:00am from Illumination Saddle and descended Reid Glacier then up and over Yokum at around 7800 ft. Went up the headwall while attempting to dodge ice and summited around 10am.|
|Posted May 18, 2009 5:34 pm|
|bfrench||Birthday Solo |
Date Climbed: May 25, 2007
|Climbed solo on my birthday. 2 hours 15 minutes from Timberline. Skied old chute and made it to Seattle by noon.|
|Posted Apr 28, 2009 12:23 am|
|EastKing||Hogsback-Old Chute |
Date Climbed: May 29, 2009
|Done deal. But I will go back many more times. What a beautiful climb! See both on April and May TR's|
|Posted Apr 25, 2009 2:33 am|
|bruceg||South Side |
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1997
|Climbed with Timberline Mountain Guides. Summited at 6 am in a cloudbank. I have heard that the view is great.|
|Posted Apr 24, 2009 8:13 pm|
Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009
|Craig and Greg and I set out at 10pm and made it to the Hogsback by 4am. Craig having been on the summit twice was fully prepared to continue on. Greg and I dizzy from altitude sickness and sulfur dioxide fumes decided to turn around. I thought we could probably make it up the chute in our condition but it would have been an unnecessary risk coming down.|
UPDATE: My second attempt was successful via the Leuthold Couloir, December 4th, 2011
|Posted Apr 20, 2009 9:13 pm|
|lalpinist||Perfect Conditions |
Date Climbed: Apr 19, 2009
|Very nice conditions (clear, warm, mild wind an not as crowded as other times I've been). The Pearly Gats are still iced up; the Old Chute route that is stomped out went a little bit West of where I remember, making a bit of an exposed stretch to the true summit. The (half) moon when it first rose was so orange, it looked like mars.|
|Posted Apr 20, 2009 5:37 pm|
|deungsan||finally got to Hood|
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008
|Partner Tony and I did the normal route. Fairly straightforward.|
Good time all around.
|Posted Mar 28, 2009 6:31 pm|
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2007
|Barely got to the summit before being chased back down by a storm. Great intro on glacier climbs. Climbed with WoundedKnee and Timberline.|
|Posted Mar 15, 2009 5:57 pm|
|skydiver777||The first of three |
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2008
|Two friends and I set out to climb 3 peaks in one week. Mt Hood, the first, we used to warm up for Mt. Adams. the first day we climbed up to the Devils Kitchen,(p.u. sulpher) set up camp and reviewed rescues. In the morning we got up to make a short climb to the summit. Beautiful clear weather. We could see 200 miles in each direction. Climbing down sucked seeing all those skiers, and I didn't have my skis. Onto Mt. Adams|
|Posted Mar 5, 2009 4:58 pm|
|farrisgl||Camped out above ski lift|
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2002
|Two of my French business colleagues Joel and Luc climbed up from timberline lodge early afternoon on Saturday and camped out about a 1/4 mile or so above the top of the upper ski lift. Really nice weather and an enjoyable evening apart from the sound of the ski slope grooming equipment backup alarms active until almost midnight. |
We were up with the crunch, crunch, crunch of other climbers walking past our tents and heading toward the summit. Very busy morning as we climbed above the bergschrund and through Pearly Gates ice chute. The number of people, and poor climbing techniques would have made this really dangerous if not for the fairly soft snow conditions. My friend Luc, a very experienced French mountaineer, couldn’t contain himself with 3 groups, asking “do you guys know what you are doing?” These dangerous climbing practices taking place just a few weeks after the multiple fatalities in exactly the same place.
We reached the summit at first light providing a truly amazing site. On the summit was a very intricate snow cave complete with a window out the steep North Slope.
Are decent was marred with more questionable climbing parties including a group of 3 roped together equality dividing a 60 meter rope with the climber in the middle. We took our time on the descent enjoying the spectacular setting.
This is a really great summit; however it was sobering to think of the three deaths as we passed the 'shrund just a few weeks before.
|Posted Mar 3, 2009 2:27 pm|