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Mount Humphreys Climber's Log

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RomainEast Arete (II, 5.4)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007


With Rene' Renteria. Via East Arete, from the notch at the top of the Southeast Gully. Even with the abbreviated arete, this is a long climb. The climbing is moderate (nothing in excess of mid fifth, mostly 3rd and 4th class). Excellent conditions and weather. Trip report here.
Posted Jun 19, 2007 9:55 pm

yaknjorgl a kids dream  Sucess!


been on pile of summit rocks twice (1st with Kevin Ball and 2nd with Jeff Perry and Bob Ghanall) chugging up the normal route both times with a rope. It was great growing up in Bishop and seeing it everyday and finally climbing it. I tried climbing it in the 80's when I was a teenager before I knew what guidebooks were and the people at the climbing store had egos too large to have meer mortals ask them questions- Troy Pino and I didn't make it all that far up the east arete but it was fun as was the dip in the tairn at the bottm. Good times, good times...
Posted May 2, 2007 2:47 am

alpinebunnyEast Side Scramble  Sucess!


My son and my 2 dogs came up as far as Longley lake. They took a nap, I scrambled up the north side of the lake to a plateau. Followed the ridge and scrambled up a little class 4 for a great view.
Posted Oct 13, 2006 6:28 am

dervinNorth Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006


Spectacular Peak
Posted Oct 10, 2006 3:17 am

forjanNorth Couloir Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2006


Climbed with fellow SCMA member Dave German. We started walking at 5:05AM. Couple of hours later we were taking a rest at the Longley Reservoir (a.k.a. McGee Lake). We brought a 9.4mm x 60m rope, 6 screws, slings and a handful of medium nuts and 2 cams. Didn't use any of it for the ascent; the couloir was all neve...just a bit of ice starting to form at the top (the crux section). We gained the 'shrund (elev ~ 12,400') on climber's right (climbed some loose 4th class with crampons on). We simul-solo the couloir in 1 hr 20 min. Then, scrambled from the notch (elev ~ 13,400') onto the standard NW face route. Ran into SP'ers crescentstrife and bechtt. Chatted with them for ten minutes or so. Reached the summit by 11:15AM. Descended upper part of East Arete and then SE gully. Back at the car by 3:00PM (10 hrs roundtrip).

Route Climbed: East Arete
Date Climbed: July 15, 2006

Climbed with Steve Larson. What he said. Dehydrated on the way down; descended the SE gully, where we found running water from the snow melt. Around 10.5 hours car-to-car.

Route Climbed: North Couloir Direct (attempt)
Date Climbed: September 18, 2004

The North Couloir Direct was pretty melted out yesterday, Saturday, September 18, 2004. The ice was 95% water ice but dirty from rockfall. My partner (Javier Gonzalez) and I only climbed the first 2 pitches above the bergshrund. We left the Los Angeles area on Friday afternoon, 9/17/04. Got to the trailhead (elev ~ 9000') by 10:30pm. We got ready our gear and packs and went off to sleep by 11:15pm. We set our wake-up call at 4:00am. Coming directly from sea level, I ony managed to sleep a couple of hours. By 4:40am, we were walking. We reached Longley Reservoir (elev ~ 10,700') at 6:20am. Filled our water bottles and started up the moraine. We geared up at the base of the small, north glacier there and by 8:30am I was belaying Javier up the bergshrund. Javier led the 1st pitch up the left side of the bergshrund. The right side had an intimidating, overhanging iced cornice. All the while there were golf-sized rocks coming down the couloir every other minute (in retrospect now, we shouldn't have climbed the couloir with the rock fall conditions it had yesterday in the first place). I led the 2nd pitch. Just about a minute after Javier clipped in at the 2 ice screw belay I set up, a 1-foot sized rock just missed me by a mere 6 feet from my right shoulder. That's when we got the hell down out of there. Because we had brought two 8.5mm by 60 meter ropes, we only had 2 rappels back down below the bergshrund. This was first time rappeling off Abalakov V-threads that we made. Our altimeter read 12,660' at the top of the 2nd pitch. I'll go back again and attempt Mt. Humphreys North Couloir Direct when conditions are better. We drove down to Bishop where we pigged out at "Los Amigos" mexican restaurant. The Carne Asada is good there.

Posted Oct 2, 2006 3:14 am

bechttNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2006


Great climb with Ryan (crescentstrife.) Definitely a mountain to be climbed again!
Posted Oct 1, 2006 11:14 pm

Desert SolitaireIf you haven't climbed Humphreys yet, then GO NOW!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2006

Desert Solitaire

Car to car time: 9 hrs, 15 min from North Lake. A beautiful solo climb. The 4th class sections were fun, especially the wild pitch right below the summit. I'll be back again for the E Arete, N Couloir and SE Buttress. I love peaks like Humphreys that has fine routes on all the cardinal directions!
Posted Sep 16, 2006 3:41 am

DigglerEast arĂȘte- attempt and success  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2006


Decided that since I was back on the East Side for a spell, I should give this another go. Got a leisurely start from Bishop, where Laura let me crash at her place after hanging out.

It's amazing anyone ever finds that trailhead! Getting there could be a metaphor for arriving at the summit of Humphreys. After getting my stuff together, finally got going at 10.11.

Likely at least in part due to my 'jaunt' up Mt. Tom 2 days prior, altitude didn't pose any problems, and I felt great. Made good time- 2 hours to the notch. Lower ridge a ton of fun, as I remembered. Downclimb from Peaklet questionable as I remembered it, too. Fortunately felt a bit easier this time, though.

Numerous downclimbs/detours required to find a suitable way to continue to upper ridge, definitely consuming time.

Finally on my way on the upper ridge, and things started flowing. True summit quite a delight, requiring 100' or so of low 5th to get to the top- yay! Arrived at the top at 16.43. Soaked up the sublime Sierra views, enjoying some chile cheeze bread and a Double Nut Brown while doing so.

Left summit, reluctantly, at 17.36. Downclimb somewhat time-consuming due to technical nature, but uneventful. Took expedient drainage-glacial remnant basin south of lower ridge. A fun time-saver! Back at truck at 21.35.

Not using a rope was expended time and energy, but made for a more satisfying experience. Great day up a fun climb on a majestic peak!

Started from the 4WD parking @ 9400' (it's so nice to have a 4X4!!) @ 8.38. Started out at reasonable pace, but slowed down soon. Altitude & sun both took their toll on me, & this climb reminded me of how a cross-country approach & continuous 4th class can render approach mileage & elevation gain statistics meaningless. Would've expected my jaunt up a 14er (WMP) the day prior to have been sufficient conditioning, but I guess not :(

Climbing down from peak 13,151, I felt like dog shit, it was already 14.30, & I still had the descent & a 6-hour drive back ahead of me. Decided to turn back (SE gully descent was right below me at that point as well). Had I had a campsite below (instead of having to drive to Sac that night), I probably would have kept on going, but combination of adversities convinced me otherwise.

Will be back! Next time will ensure I don't have to be back at work the next day (maybe leave rope, small rack, & harness- none used- behind as well- significant weight savings!). Fourth-class ridge up until there from Peak 12,240 was enjoyable, & great views!
Posted Aug 28, 2006 11:51 pm

Steve LarsonEast Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006

Steve Larson

Climbed this fun arete with Miguel Forjan. We were a bit slow and made a couple of route finding errors, but still managed to top out in about 6.5 hours. Awesome wildflowers. We took a rope, but never used it on the way up. We did two raps on the way down, since we had the rope and the anchors were already in place. Not sure if that speeded things up at all. We both thought we were going to be able to fill up our hydration bladders at the lake below the saddle, but we came out several hundred feet above it, and didn't want to take the time to go fill up. We paid for that, with both of us running dry by the time we hit the summit. We were parched until we found running water on the descent. Warm weather and little wind. We had the summit to ourselves. Huphreys has the best views of any Sierra peak I can recall.
Posted Jul 17, 2006 1:05 am

tb00957class 4  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005
fun climb. We did one long rappel with two 60m rope, and rope got stuck. Had to climb back up. Would be easier to do two rappels.
Posted Jun 22, 2006 12:02 am

iwlclmeverestRoute Climbed: NW face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2002


Climbed with some great friends of mine. Great summit view and could see the haze from the Cali fires. Slide down is interesting. All around fun.
Posted Jun 8, 2006 1:25 pm

RobtRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: Sept05  Sucess!


w/Bob Suzuki and PCS group
Posted Dec 13, 2005 1:19 pm

ChuckORoute Climbed: SW Slope/NW Face Date Climbed: 18aug2005  Sucess!


With Shano. Excellent trip, perfect conditions and partner! Excellent!
Posted Nov 9, 2005 4:15 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: N. Couloir Direct  Sucess!


With Paul Dowdy
Posted Oct 16, 2005 1:24 pm

plumeRoute Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: Sept. 16, 2005  Sucess!


Fine solo climb. Worth lugging a rope up for getting down. Best to stay on the arete all the way to avoid the loose stuff on either side. There are a few "fresh air traverses" remimiscent of Whitney's east face, but the route is more fun and airy.
Posted Sep 19, 2005 1:54 pm

ShanoRoute Climbed: Regular Route Date Climbed: 18Aug 2005  Sucess!


fun climb w/ Chuck Ohrbom. Hiked into the basin from N. Lake and setup camp. Dayhiked the peak next day. Almost perfect conditions - no view of the Owens Valley due to swirling mists but otherwise fantastic.

Posted Aug 22, 2005 5:49 pm

Rick KentRoute Climbed: West Slope & NW Face Date Climbed: July 23, 2005  Sucess!

Rick Kent

Solo dayhike from North Lake. Went too far North and ended up heading up the mountain from the West. This turned out to be far more enjoyable than the horrendously loose gully I later descended. The westerly approach was more gradual at first and had fairly nice rock (mostly class 2/3 with a couple class 4 sections). It eventually topped out on the NW ridge which I then followed to the notch. Things only got better from that point. The class 3/4 from the notch to the summit was sweet!
Posted Jul 25, 2005 12:31 pm

stoneloanRoute Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: Sometime in July of 2000  Sucess!


See trip report
Posted Jul 22, 2005 12:49 pm

DeRangerRoute Climbed: usual route from Humphreys Basin Date Climbed: 1986??  Sucess!


With friend Tom Montgomery - WOW - a great climb.
Posted Jun 21, 2005 12:27 pm

Antonio GenissimoRoute Climbed: South West Slope Date Climbed: 9/25/04

Antonio Genissimo

Tony Jennings, Tim Washick, Dave Bolland, Don Bolland, and two other friends climbed to the top on Saturday. The weather was clear and cold. Swimming was good, but short. Great view and a great time with wonderful people.
Posted Dec 10, 2004 4:45 pm

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