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Mount Huntington Climber's Log

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wdimpflFrench Ridge
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 1984


Exact date uncertain. Mike Syvanen and Chris Kaiser joined me to climb the French Ridge route. Cliff Hudson flew us to the West fork of the Ruth Glacier, below the North East face of Mt. Huntington. In excellent weather we attained the French ridge after camping on the lip of a crevasse below the ridge near the col. We dug a snow cave on the ridge a short distance from the begin of the serious climbing. Chris had had a bad accident during the winter on Mt. Washington in New Hampshire, falling a long distance on ice from the ridge. The exposure on Mt. Huntington was giving him flash backs to his accident and didn't want to continue. I wanted to at least climb past the overhanging rock band low on the ridge. The climbing on the ridge was not enjoyable: sugary snow that you had to burrow through to get to solid ice on short sections of very steep (80 degrees) slope. I managed to surmount the rock band and we continued about a rope length further before retreating. We left a cache of about a weeks worth of food hidden near where we had our snow cave.
Posted Dec 22, 2017 6:19 pm

oldladyclimber1st woman to summit  Sucess!
As part of the second group to climb the French Ridge and the 5th to climb the mountain, I was the first woman to summit Huntington in May of 1976. You can read about our climb in the 1977 American Alpine Journal. Cindy Jones
Posted Apr 8, 2011 11:35 am

BrookTroutLeiphart1st lady summiteer?
I was wondering if Cricket Pharr was the 1st lady to summit Huntington? She was a guide for Ray Genet in 1977 when she took me up McKinley. A beautiful gal with a great smile!
Posted May 20, 2010 1:06 pm

travelin_lightWF Couloir
Date Climbed: May 8, 2007


Two attempts but no cigar. Final attempt got us above the couloir before we got stormed off.
Posted Aug 25, 2007 2:07 am

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