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Mount Jefferson Climber's Log

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Josh LewisFrom the South  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015

Josh Lewis

After crossing the snowfield beyond the red saddle, traverse as far as you reasonably can onto the north side. From there traverse westward as you go up towards the summit. Eventually you will end up on the right side of the summit. Go through the gully which will take you to the top.

This method will help bypass any class 4 stuff. My route is class 3 and is the easiest way to the summit. And I mean easy class 3. :-) Mostly solid rock too which was a pleasant surprise.
Posted May 24, 2016 2:51 pm

scgrantMount Jefferson  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015


Awesome climb with Jobe Wymore. Very straight forward hike up to the Red Saddle and then not so much. By far the sketchiest part of the entire hike is getting across the snowfield to reach the other side of the summit pinnacle. The scramble up to the top wasn't too bad although there were a couple sections of class 4 climbing.
Posted Sep 16, 2015 12:17 am

olsennSW ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2015


The snow traverse was short, but still sketchy. At 11:30 on a reasonable warm day (in August!) the snow was just softening a little. I was very grateful I was on belay when I fell there. The team descending as we ascended hadn't gone far enough north to find the class 4 route. Go almost all the way to the north side before turning up or you'll be stuck. Descending the ridge that ends at Pamelia was almost as bad as I remembered. Next time I'd go the extra distance by going by Shale Lake hoping for a better route.
Posted Sep 1, 2015 3:26 pm

Mike LewisS Ridge not much water  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015

Mike Lewis

Very dry trip. We had to ration water carefully. Pamelia Lake looked nearly gone as did Shale Lake. Like Craig said, the traverse was serious business but the scramble turned out easy. Neat climb and glad I went.
Posted Jul 20, 2015 9:13 am

RedwicGreat climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015


With Josh & Michael. Don't be fooled... there *is* an easy Class 3 climb of the summit block. It is not immediately obvious but it is there. The sketchiest part of the whole journey was the traverse after the Red Saddle. We were able to make some use of the moat, with two pitches using a 60m rope. Fantastic weather and views. I dedicated this climb to my recently deceased peakbagging buddy, Edward Earl.
Posted Jul 20, 2015 8:57 am

endo.the.timberJPG solo   Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 14, 2015


white out and thick cloud the entire time past 8200. Took me bloody 13.5 hrs from Whitewater trail head. Did climb from car to car.
Posted May 16, 2015 1:18 pm

rmick25Southwest attempt
Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2014


Traverse melted out for Fruitstripe. Sketchy
Posted Feb 11, 2015 5:26 pm

MarkSmithTurn around at Red Saddle
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2014
We left camp at 4:30am from the east end of Jefferson Park. We headed up a gully that was used by one in the party on a previous attempt. However, the snow petered out leaving us in a dangerous position on steep, loose dirt from a terminal moraine deposited long ago. By the time we made the traverse of Whitewater and worked up ugly scree to Red Saddle, we had reached our turn-around time of 12:00pm. Although it was a slightly below average snowfall year and a warmer than usual summer, a large section of the traverse was still in snow this late in the season. The first half of the snow field could be bypassed by a mote, but not the second half. Although the weather was perfect, we reluctantly turned back. Next time, we'll set a higher camp and get an earlier start.
Posted Nov 2, 2014 10:30 pm

Nick TurturaFINALLY!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2014

Nick Turtura

This was my fourth try on my nemesis, Mount Jefferson. We left the Pamelia Lake TH at midnight on the nose. Approached through Shale lake and went up the South Ridge. We made the Red Saddle at 6:30 just after the sun rose. The traverse was short, 200', and solid. In fact I probably could have placed screws in a couple of spots. However I only brought pickets. Placed 3 pickets and traversed with ease. After some confusing route finding we scrambled an easy class 4 summit block to the top. Had a rope so we rapped down. No need to protect the climb. back across the traverse and at the saddle by 10:00am. Returned the way we came.

23.5 Miles
7100' Elevation gain
16 Hours

Perfect day
Posted Sep 9, 2014 11:25 pm

Brian KaletSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2014

Brian Kalet

Led the snow traverse in trail runners
Posted Aug 25, 2014 1:48 pm

Nick TurturaBummer X2
Date Climbed: May 25, 2014

Nick Turtura

Went Jeff Park this time. Saw a bunch of rime on the razor ridge so we traversed White Water then up to the Red Saddle. The traverse under the pinnacle wasn't bad, then headed over to the summit block to find some nasty rime so we turned around 150' from the top. Now I'm just getting pissed, I'll be back in a couple of weeks for try 3! Who knew Jeff takes 21000' of climbing to summit!
Posted May 28, 2014 12:14 am

bedellympianwinter solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2014


via Jeff Park Glacier, 5.5 hours camp-camp at base of glacier, descended North Milk Crk gully and traversed mod snow to top of Russell Glacier... excellent route, highly recommended
Posted May 22, 2014 2:55 pm

rick6003Mt Jefferson , South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013


We climbed Mt. Jefferson from Coyote Lake, first time up this mountain but not my first try. We got rained out last year. The weather was perfect this time. We carried 2 ropes and a bit of gear. Protecting on the traverse was our main concern and my 70 Meter rope was long enough to cover it. One snow patch left to cross but it was very short. Main problem was loose and damp ground. Only one catch your breath when a large rock came loose on one of us and banged his shin pretty good.
Posted Sep 15, 2013 11:34 pm

Nick TurturaBummer
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013

Nick Turtura

Left the Pamelia Lake TH at 1:00am and arrived at the red saddle around 10:00am. It looked terrible, steep and melted out. We geared up anyways and headed down to the edge of the snow field. We lead out, on a horrific anchor, about half way. Then looking across the way all I could see was my three kids saying, "don't be a dork dad!" So we turned around 200 feet short. I hate posting failed attempts but it might help the next climber, so in short, it was a bad snow year and what little snow that was there was rotten. Thus, I'll be back in spring. BTW 15hrs, 7500 feet, a bear at 2:00am, and no summit, kinda sucks.
Posted Aug 25, 2013 12:29 am

ericwillhiteWhitewater Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013


Sure was a long route going around the mountain. http://www.willhiteweb.com/oregon_climbing/mount_jefferson/whitewater_glacier_266.htm
Posted Jul 9, 2013 4:25 am

Darren9Jeff Park   Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 25, 2013


With Sierra Mountaineering Group, we climbed the Jefferson Park glacier route with its famous knife-edge ridge crusted with rime ice and snow - it was an exhilirating and fun climb, well worth the effort. We opted not to ascend the final summit pinnacle owing to time, and descended the Russell Glacier which turned out to be a solid plan.
Posted Jul 7, 2013 7:10 pm

Dan WinterSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2012

Dan Winter

Fun climb with The MVP and Montana. The snow traverse was melted out and the we were able to skirt below this steep exposed area on the worst rock and scree imaginable. I was happy to have a rope and a few pieces of gear for the last bit. Familiarity with the route from a previous attempt and an early start from Shale lake were instrumental in our success.
Posted Sep 29, 2012 5:21 pm

nicozoneThe Longest Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012


Started in from Woodpecker TH as a free-parking alternative to Pamelia Lakes TH (with the added bonus of another 7 miles rt). Hiked into a small snow-melt lake on the flats just north of Goat Peak on Saturday. Left at 1:40am on Sunday, and made the top by 8:30am using the South Ridge to Red Saddle, making the west face traverse to the North Ridge and up the scramble to the summit. Such a long tedious day on the return to the TH. I had blisters and sore feet just from the return hike.
Posted Aug 21, 2012 12:39 am

Vic HansonAugust 2012 glaciers - 2  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2012

Vic Hanson

After Glacier Peak we drove down to Oregon and climbed Jefferson, again great weather but this time we used full gear - crampons, axe, pickets, and rope. We camped in a small saddle just off the climber's trail, hiked up the ridge to the glacier and took that in a loop around to the south side, again climbed the ridge, traversed around the two steep snow slopes and then climbed up the rocky ridge from the north. Nice scramble up to the summit, Smiley did belay me up one steep spot just below the top. We returned the same way, hiked down to the shelter and camped near that on day 2, back to the car the next morning.
Posted Aug 16, 2012 8:12 pm

santanoniSW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011


There was still snow on the PCT above 5400 ft or so, even in August when I did it. I bivied at about 7800 ft next to a snow field. I did a S-SW ridge loop. The traverse was pretty hard ice, which was nice. The summit block was still iced up in spots.

Decent on the SW ridge was not fun - some of the worst scree and loose rock I have encountered. It was hard to stay on the ridge, and hard to traverse below it. I ended up scree skiing down into the drainage to the N.
Posted Jan 12, 2012 10:24 pm

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