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Nick TurturaBummer X2
Date Climbed: May 25, 2014

Nick Turtura

Went Jeff Park this time. Saw a bunch of rime on the razor ridge so we traversed White Water then up to the Red Saddle. The traverse under the pinnacle wasn't bad, then headed over to the summit block to find some nasty rime so we turned around 150' from the top. Now I'm just getting pissed, I'll be back in a couple of weeks for try 3! Who knew Jeff takes 21000' of climbing to summit!
Posted May 28, 2014 12:14 am

bedellympianwinter solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2014


via Jeff Park Glacier, 5.5 hours camp-camp at base of glacier, descended North Milk Crk gully and traversed mod snow to top of Russell Glacier... excellent route, highly recommended
Posted May 22, 2014 2:55 pm

rick6003Mt Jefferson , South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013


We climbed Mt. Jefferson from Coyote Lake, first time up this mountain but not my first try. We got rained out last year. The weather was perfect this time. We carried 2 ropes and a bit of gear. Protecting on the traverse was our main concern and my 70 Meter rope was long enough to cover it. One snow patch left to cross but it was very short. Main problem was loose and damp ground. Only one catch your breath when a large rock came loose on one of us and banged his shin pretty good.
Posted Sep 15, 2013 11:34 pm

Nick TurturaBummer
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013

Nick Turtura

Left the Pamelia Lake TH at 1:00am and arrived at the red saddle around 10:00am. It looked terrible, steep and melted out. We geared up anyways and headed down to the edge of the snow field. We lead out, on a horrific anchor, about half way. Then looking across the way all I could see was my three kids saying, "don't be a dork dad!" So we turned around 200 feet short. I hate posting failed attempts but it might help the next climber, so in short, it was a bad snow year and what little snow that was there was rotten. Thus, I'll be back in spring. BTW 15hrs, 7500 feet, a bear at 2:00am, and no summit, kinda sucks.
Posted Aug 25, 2013 12:29 am

ericwillhiteWhitewater Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013


Sure was a long route going around the mountain. http://www.willhiteweb.com/oregon_climbing/mount_jefferson/whitewater_glacier_266.htm
Posted Jul 9, 2013 4:25 am

Darren9Jeff Park   Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 25, 2013


With Sierra Mountaineering Group, we climbed the Jefferson Park glacier route with its famous knife-edge ridge crusted with rime ice and snow - it was an exhilirating and fun climb, well worth the effort. We opted not to ascend the final summit pinnacle owing to time, and descended the Russell Glacier which turned out to be a solid plan.
Posted Jul 7, 2013 7:10 pm

Dan WinterSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2012

Dan Winter

Fun climb with The MVP and Montana. The snow traverse was melted out and the we were able to skirt below this steep exposed area on the worst rock and scree imaginable. I was happy to have a rope and a few pieces of gear for the last bit. Familiarity with the route from a previous attempt and an early start from Shale lake were instrumental in our success.
Posted Sep 29, 2012 5:21 pm

nicozoneThe Longest Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012


Started in from Woodpecker TH as a free-parking alternative to Pamelia Lakes TH (with the added bonus of another 7 miles rt). Hiked into a small snow-melt lake on the flats just north of Goat Peak on Saturday. Left at 1:40am on Sunday, and made the top by 8:30am using the South Ridge to Red Saddle, making the west face traverse to the North Ridge and up the scramble to the summit. Such a long tedious day on the return to the TH. I had blisters and sore feet just from the return hike.
Posted Aug 21, 2012 12:39 am

Vic HansonAugust 2012 glaciers - 2  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2012

Vic Hanson

After Glacier Peak we drove down to Oregon and climbed Jefferson, again great weather but this time we used full gear - crampons, axe, pickets, and rope. We camped in a small saddle just off the climber's trail, hiked up the ridge to the glacier and took that in a loop around to the south side, again climbed the ridge, traversed around the two steep snow slopes and then climbed up the rocky ridge from the north. Nice scramble up to the summit, Smiley did belay me up one steep spot just below the top. We returned the same way, hiked down to the shelter and camped near that on day 2, back to the car the next morning.
Posted Aug 16, 2012 8:12 pm

santanoniSW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011


There was still snow on the PCT above 5400 ft or so, even in August when I did it. I bivied at about 7800 ft next to a snow field. I did a S-SW ridge loop. The traverse was pretty hard ice, which was nice. The summit block was still iced up in spots.

Decent on the SW ridge was not fun - some of the worst scree and loose rock I have encountered. It was hard to stay on the ridge, and hard to traverse below it. I ended up scree skiing down into the drainage to the N.
Posted Jan 12, 2012 10:24 pm

Ted EliasonJeff Park Glacier Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1995

Ted Eliason

Third time is the charm after finally heading left of the scary bergshrund at the top of the glacier.
Posted Oct 12, 2011 12:17 pm

amochkaSouth Ridge   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009


Good climb, great group. Trip up to Red Saddle tedious. Trip across traverse slightly anxiety-provoking, but great summit, nice conditions. Melted out pro on the way back across the traverse was super fun to deal with. Long day, tough climb but a blast..
Posted Jun 27, 2011 8:35 pm

e-docwest rib
Date Climbed: May 22, 2011


In via Pamelia Lake. Enormous avalanche debris in Milk Creek. Snowshoed up to about 6500'. Tons of snow this spring. Postholing and slow going on the West rib, bailed about 7800'. Headed down to the Sisters and bagged MS.
Posted Jun 20, 2011 9:21 pm

iquest4itJust as hard as it looks  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009


This peak is just as hard as it looks - maybe harder. The first time we got weathered off by that fantastic orographic lift down there, but this time it was pretty straight forward. We all agreed to bring some rock-pro instead of free climbing the summit cone next time - that's quite the drop.
Posted Dec 25, 2010 5:12 am

mansfieoGreat Climb with Dad  Sucess!


My dad is 59 and climbed the Whitewater Route like he was 30. Go dad!
Posted Dec 19, 2010 5:10 am

jdkoziolConditions Question
Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2010
I am planning on climbing Jefferson this weekend. Has anyone climbed it recently? I was wondering if the red saddle had any snow.
Posted Oct 12, 2010 12:25 am

DigglerAh'll be back
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2010


Had high hopes of completing the Jefferson Park Glacier, but alas, it was not to be (this time)... Faith & I somehow overshot Jefferson Park (still covered in snow- snow line was approximately 5,200' (!)), & ended up somewhere a little bit below the glacier, ~6,500'. Got to bed a little late, but we were still optimistic. Sometime around midnight, though, winds picked up, & didn't let up. Steady 40 mph, with gusts up to 60 mph (guesstimate). This didn't please me, & I didn't feel like pushing our luck up higher (where the breeze would likely be much stronger), where the climb goes over a sizable glacier, then up to a knife-edged ridge, before the summit pinnacle. This at least allowed for a leisurely day to return.
Posted Jul 20, 2010 1:39 pm

SnowsloggerLabor Day labor  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 1993


Returned after an unsuccessful attempt last year (rime ice coating the summit). Definitely one of the hardest Cascade volcanoes.
Posted Dec 28, 2009 12:31 am

ronyaySW Ridge in Sept  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009


Snow free the entire way, sent and returned in 11 hrs to Pamelia TH.
Wonder what that pinnacle would be like under rime ice? As it was, she was not the wicked ogre that everyone made her out to be.
Posted Sep 16, 2009 5:07 pm

millsb40SW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2009


This is a rather long climb, but not too strenuous if you are in pretty good shape. We tried to climb the in June, but got snowed (and thunder stormed) off the mountain. There was much less snow July 2nd than there was June 12th.

We camped at 6800' just South of the Southwest Ridge in a basin type area. This was less than a mile from the trail, I think my GPS said about 1/2 a mile. So it was very steep after leaving the trail, but put us in a nice spot for climbing in the morning.

Left the tent at 3:30 in the morning, hit the red saddle at 7:00. This took longer than we thought it would. We were on top around 8:30 (maybe 9?). This too took longer than we hoped. The traverse was snow, pretty good condition on the way up, much less so on the way down. We set pickets across the traverse. The summit horn still had some snow and ice but it was not that difficult (the traverse wasn't that difficult either with the conditions we had). Left the summit at 9:30ish, didn't make the saddle until nearly 11:00 (again this took longer than I had hoped). Made camp at 12:00 and the car at 2:00. I wouldn't plan on being at the car 3 hours from the saddle including breaking camp on the way, but I had somewhere to be that evening.

One of the best alpine experiences you can get in Oregon. Jeff has beautiful scenery, and a challenging and rewarding climb.
Posted Jul 24, 2009 9:07 pm

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