Route Climbed: North Face Standard ROute Date Climbed: August 19, 2002
25 ropelengths, rated as a V inf, with the keyclimb on Firmin's tower with two ropelengths of 5 sup. According to the book the climb requires 10 hours, which most people really seem to need. Add an hour to reach the base of the climb and descent time and you will see that you are never going to do this in daylight (12 hours all year round). Planning a bivouac might be a good plan when not climbing with an expierienced guide.
Besides the difficult technical climb on Firmin's tower, Shiptons step, consisting of very loose rocks which have to be traversed horizontally and then downward, also posed quite a problem closely to the summit. Going down is quite easy, because you can use a lot of abseils.
Route Climbed: McInder's route (normal route) Date Climbed: 11/12 March 1983
We left the Austrian hut 6:30 am, and reached the summit of Nelion 1:30 pm (bad acclimatisation). Because of the regular afternoon snowstorm we stayed in the bivouac hut on the summit of Nelion. Started for the summit of Batian 8:00 am the next morning. After summitting Batian, climbed back to Nelion and rappelled back down (the last part in the afternoon snowstorm)