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marcpagani.comRoute Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: August 5, 2002  Sucess!


Beautiful route with exciting mimi-ice climb to get around bergschrund...stupidly jumped crevasse near bergschrund on way down and twisted my ankle...great climb. Marc Pagani, Mike Gehard, Chris Gehard
Posted Nov 4, 2004 3:54 pm

ripper333Route Climbed: ingraham glacier direct Date Climbed: august 2000
awesome conditions.

july 4th 2006...campground,summit, campground...one push with only bare
minimum.....emmons glacier ....fun to climb this peak light and fast..

Posted Oct 20, 2004 9:49 pm

Phil DeckerRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: June 27 2004  Sucess!

Phil Decker

Incredible day - Perfect conditions
Posted Oct 13, 2004 9:46 pm

mt_daydreamRoute Climbed: Muir-DC Date Climbed: Sept 25-26, 2004  Sucess!


Picture-perfect weather conditions on the way up. RMI guides were excellent. Learnt quite a few things from them. Snow got too mushy on the way down. Saw another team (luckily) miss a big boulder rolling down the cleaver (as they were on the fixed ropes). Will surely return to try another route.
Posted Sep 28, 2004 4:40 am

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: Gibraltar ledges Date Climbed: spring '96  Sucess!


Great climb!

Steam caves are a nice place to catch a quick nap on the way up or down... other than a short technical pitch or two this route's (usually) straightforward....
Posted Sep 25, 2004 5:27 pm

Dennis PoulinRoute Climbed: Paradis-Muir-Cleaver Date Climbed: 16 June 2004  Sucess!

Dennis Poulin

Great climbing partners with Dan and Richard. Perfect weather.
Posted Aug 26, 2004 4:36 pm

n8jojohnsonRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 20, 2004  Sucess!


Spectacular sunrise started as we hit the cleaver. Could see the Puget Sound from Columbia Crest. A team member brought a frisbee, and we played a little Ultimate in the crater basin.
Posted Aug 24, 2004 1:44 pm

jcolarRoute Climbed: Disappointment cleaver Date Climbed: Aug. 16, 2004  Sucess!
Great trek to Muir. Alpine start was on the warm side. Breaks were chilly. Cloudy at the summit. Great views on the way down.
Posted Aug 23, 2004 9:47 am

AGPDclimberRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 14 August 2004  Sucess!
Cimb to Camp Muir was rather fatiguing because of the high temperature. Water was essential. Started the DC route summit attempt at 12:30 am. Light layer with insulated trekking pants. Breaks were very cold. Even had a fox visit us at about the third break. View from the top was spectacular. Anyone making the summit should take advantage of shedding packs at the summit bowl and hiking to the apex of the mountain. RMI guides were outstanding!! Good luck to all who dare to climb!
Posted Aug 22, 2004 10:00 pm

mountainjunkieRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 29, 2004  Sucess!


The climb took 2 days, starting on 6/28 and summitting on 6/29. We had great weather with little wind and lots of sunshine. This was my first time on Rainier, but I hope to definitely be back for another route.
Posted Aug 20, 2004 7:30 pm

sixsigmafoolRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 26-30, 2004  Sucess!
Yeah, I know...the easiest route AND in 4 days. But I had two guests, and neither one was seasoned in glacier travel or 9000' altitude gain. Route was great, weather was great, views were so-so. The smoke from forest fires in Lake Chelan and BC blocked views to the North and West. Adams, Hood, and St. Helens were clearly visible to the South and East. Two hours on the summit made the guests ecstatic. At least that what I told them they'd feel after getting home and recuperating!
Posted Aug 16, 2004 3:44 pm

forkliftdaddyRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 17-20, 2004  Sucess!
Started low (hiking past Comet Falls, not from Paradise) and took our time. Two day approach to high camp (at the Turtle) had good weather. First summit attempt (morning of the 19th) was stymied by weather, however. Second push had perfect weather and great conditions. Chute was good snow and great ice. Routefinding was a bit difficult in the dark. The sunrise was spectacular, and the summit was a cold, windy desert in one crater and a party of ants (or a train of ant-sized parties) in the other.
Posted Aug 16, 2004 2:06 pm

Johnhl94563Route Climbed: D.C Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!


Beautiful day on the mountain. After dealing with fog, clouds, rain, snow, and winds at Camp Muir, we started up the mountain and got stuck behind a slow party of 12 that caused us to stop right under the icefall on Ingrahms glacier. The rest of the summit day ended up being a great day on the mountain. Had some natural rockfall near the bottom of Disapointment Cleave that just nicked a team of 2 behind us.

Great views, and good crisp weather. Private trip of 4 with 2 of us attempting the summit. My first big mountain trip that I organized and led.
Posted Aug 7, 2004 3:49 pm

paclimberRoute Climbed: D.C. Date Climbed: July 19-21, 2004  Sucess!


Successful summit on first attempt with private group. Lucked out on weather -- clear skies and record high temps in the pacific northwest. Took our time with the climb, spending two nights on the mountain -- first night at Muir, second at Ingraham Flats. Great views of Adams, St. Helens and Hood along the way and at the summit.
Posted Aug 4, 2004 11:40 am

esugiRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!


Camped at Ingrahm Flats and left for the summit at 1:30 am. Reached the summit in 4hr 30 min. Nearly got killed on the descent through the DC as a party above dislodged a head size rock that barely missed us. That team was good 100 vertical feet above us so you can imagine the kind of momentum this rock gained as it tumbled towards us!! We barely jumped out of the way. As a matter of fact, Courtney (cp0915) jumped to the left, I jumped to the right and the rock went right between us.

Great climb othewise. Fourth summit of the mountain.
Posted Jul 26, 2004 11:02 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!


Great climb. Way easier than I'd anticipated.
Posted Jul 26, 2004 10:35 am

agorokhovRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July, 5 2004  Sucess!
Great climb. Great partners.Great weather.
Posted Jul 24, 2004 6:09 pm

StephaneFitchRoute Climbed: Tahoma Glacier Date Climbed: June 29, 2004  Sucess!


My colleagues, Scott Patterson and Mark Fowlkes, and I, Stephane Fitch, reached the summit of Rainier at 9 a.m. on June 23. We climbed via the Tahoma Glacier route. The weather was cool and quite windy. It was my most strenuous and also most satisfying climb yet.
Posted Jul 21, 2004 5:36 pm

shanrickvRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 12, 2004  Sucess!


Awesome climb! I did it through RMI with a group of 9 guys that my good friend Alan put together over the past year. We nailed it for weather. Climbing school was cloudy, so we kept cool. Then for the climb to Camp Muir we had sun and blue skies. The alpine start at 1:30 a.m. was under a clear star filled sky. Sunrise at the top of the Cleaver was cold, but beautiful. We set the standing season record for an RMI group doing the D. Cleaver route in 5 hours and 20 minutes.
Posted Jul 14, 2004 9:55 pm

Dow WilliamsRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver, Alpine II Date Climbed: September, 1997  Sucess!

Dow Williams

Party of 4 made up this ascent, 2 from Nevada, including myself, 1 from Georgia and 1 from Alaska. From the Paradise upper parking lot take the Skyline Trail to Pan Point, continue to Pebble Creek and follow the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir at 10,100 ft. At Camp Muir, there is a ranger station, guide hut, client hut and toilet facilities. We took a rest day here and enjoyed the camaraderie, even had a gourmet meal. We chose to camp outside at Muir and did not even set up our tents. The moon and stars were great. The views from Muir out at Mount Saint Helens and Adams were spectacular. At about 1:30AM, we took off from Camp Muir, crossed the Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Gap and continued along the scree ridge to the Ingraham Glacier and Ingraham Flats at 11,100 ft. Another climbing camp exists here, but I do not see the need if you are in any shape at all. The sunrise soon followed and was postcard perfect.

Gain the cleaver on a ledge system of crumbling rock 300 ft above Ingraham Flats. Watch out for ice-fall from the Ingraham while accessing the lower cleaver. While on the cleaver, be conscientious of other parties that are moving more rapidly or slowly. This is an extremely dangerous area with a high potential for rock-fall. One good size rock took a piece off of my helmet and if it would have been a direct hit, I would not be writing this with normal concentration. We ascended the rocky/snowy cleaver to 12,300 ft. From here, only 2 of us continued on. Matt and I climbed the Ingraham Glacier to the summit, negotiating crevasses and unstable snow bridges. You will reach the crater rim at 14,150 ft. It's about a 30 to 45 minute round trip walk to the true summit (14,411 ft) and climber register. Great day even made a cellular phone call home from the crater.

We descended all the way out to the parking lot and spent a night at the Paradise Hotel.
Posted Jul 12, 2004 4:39 pm

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