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SkydiveKenRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: September 5, 2005  Sucess!


Left camp Muir at 2am and topped DC to see the most beautiful sunrise. A snow bridge just above it had collapsed and we had to step over about 4 feet. We returned down the Emmonds and cut across the bottom of the cleaver. Absolute perfect weather no wind and a few wisps of clouds.
Posted Sep 7, 2005 11:34 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!


Approach in clouds using compass and altimeter. Long summit day, but well worth it. Climbed with my Bro-in-Law, Craig Sanford. My boots were to small and the descent smashed my toes...numb for months!
Posted Sep 4, 2005 9:52 pm

diceyRoute Climbed: Emmons, Kautz Date Climbed: July 1999, July 2004  Sucess!
Posted Sep 4, 2005 1:59 pm

thundercloudRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 21, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed with Brian Jenkins and dkantola. Boot track route in good shape. Winds picked up for final 1500 feet to summit, and were very fierce. Fun climb though, and DC route is a little more interesting IMO than the Emmons. Be sure to bring your sleeping bag, lol, and prepare for lots of flying grit at camp when the winds pick up!
Posted Aug 26, 2005 1:35 am

Woodie HopperRoute Climbed: DC with RMI Date Climbed: 8/18/05  Sucess!

Woodie Hopper

Rain to Camp Muir, but otherwise perfect. I would recommend using RMI for this mountain to anyone, my guides were great. Great hike!

Posted Aug 25, 2005 9:55 am

BostonPeteRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: August 20, 2005  Sucess!


Great climb in full moon with fantastic new friends from summitpost.
Posted Aug 24, 2005 3:55 pm

smudgeRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: August 17, 2005


Made it to 12,400 and got hit with a very unpleasant freezing rain/ice storm, which turned to snow. Very strong winds and very cold above 11,500. Great mountain!!
Posted Aug 23, 2005 10:47 am

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 21, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

After failing on an attempt of Ingraham Direct in February, finally was able to tick this one off. Climbed with thundercloud and dkantola. Thinking it would be warmer at Muir, I only took a bivy sack and no sleeping bag. Bad idea, was very windy. Froze and got no sleep. Thermarest pad deflated too. Laid there with the rope wrapped around my legs trying to keep warm.

Anyway, we started about 1:45 am and got up quickly to Ingraham Flats. The Cleaver is a rotting mess but we scrambled up it and then around lots of crevasses on the glacier. Winds got pretty heavy near the top, on the summit we could lean into it and it would hold us up. Glad to get this one done. Now only Glacier Peak and Garibaldi to do to complete the Cascades.......
Posted Aug 22, 2005 11:47 am

drewdalyRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: August 19, 2005  Sucess!
Great climb away from the crowds. 2 fun ice pitch between 40 and 60 degrees. We carried our gear over and went down DC, which was a highway but made it a faster descent.
Posted Aug 22, 2005 4:12 am

Wade BakerRoute Climbed: Kautz - RMI 6-Day Expedition Seminar Date Climbed: July 16-22, 2005  Sucess!

Wade Baker

This was my first snow and ice climb ever and I am grateful to have reached Rainier's summit by this incredible route. We stood on top of Columbia Crest around 8:00 am Thursday July 21. Conditions were wondeful until we hiked out the last day in the rain. We had no injuries or accidents and everyone got along marvelously. Our guides were great, the food was delicious and the service and hospitality was world-class. I look forward to other similar adventures and hope to cross paths with these fine folks again.
Posted Aug 22, 2005 12:17 am

Pawel KrolRoute Climbed: W-E Date Climbed: july 2005  Sucess!

Pawel Krol

Went up to 3200m, had injury on ice. Slow went down. Next time
Posted Aug 22, 2005 12:15 am

photo61guyRoute Climbed: Kautz/Emmons traverse Date Climbed: July 5-9 Summitted on the 7th
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2005
Climbed from 7/5 to 7/10.,ascending the Kautz glacier summitting on the 7th; however because of white out conditions while camping in the summit crater, we were tent bound for 36 hours. So then we descended down the Emmons glacier to camp Schurman, and then to White River campground on the 10th. Awesome trip even with some adverse weather!!!
Posted Aug 19, 2005 1:10 pm

mountainjunkieRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 7/27/05  Sucess!


We had great weather, which made for a wonderful climb. The route had a lot of open crevasses this year, with a lot of great views down into some. Took an extra day at Muir to rappel down into a couple of crevasses which was a great experience. I love this mountain!
Posted Aug 18, 2005 3:47 pm

POWERJLRoute Climbed: Ingrahm Direct via Muir Date Climbed: August, 1999  Sucess!
Some friends wanted to climb Rainier via the 'I-5' route. Since I had never been up this way, I thought I'd give it a try. Rainier is always a great climb, and dodging the RMI groups was fun, but there are just simply too many folks on this route!
Posted Aug 18, 2005 10:19 am

POWERJLRoute Climbed: Emmons / Winthrop Date Climbed: August 14, 1997  Sucess!
Inter to Emmons / Winthrophis is my favorite route up. From Schurman, in the evening, the view is spetacular as the sun sets over Puget Sound and the Olympics.

This make No. 5 on top for me!

Posted Aug 18, 2005 10:15 am

charles97Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 23, 2005  Sucess!


First glacier ascent, and proud to say without help from RMI. Went up to Camp Muir in complete white-out, which was good in a way because I can't imagine how demoralizing it must be to go up the snowfield when you can actually see how far you'd have to go.

Stayed in the public shelter overnight and headed for summit at 2:30 am. Second day was completely clear and sunny. Gorgeous weather, except for the 30+ mph wind during the last 1.5 hours before reaching summit. Came down too late. Snow was melting out big time! Mad dash for Muir from the summit, and reached Muir around 4 pm.

Post-holing in thigh deep snow all the way down the snowfield, which sucked big time. I was really glad to get to solid ground after Pebble Creek. Back to bottom before 8 pm. 24 hours of hiking in 36 hours.
Posted Aug 17, 2005 2:56 pm

ChamiltonRoute Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 12th 2005  Sucess!


Fantastic but tough trip wth RMI. Was privilaged to be on Win Wittaker's rope team. Left Camp Muir at 1am, and reached summit at 6.28. Fog on the way up and bright blue skies on the way down. Brutal pace down saw us at Paradise for 2pm. Great Trip.
Posted Aug 15, 2005 4:55 pm

Gig WheatonRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: Aug 3 2005  Sucess!
first cascade for this new englander - great mountain - tough mountain - we had great weather. have to says thanks to rmi for grooming this route even though we didn't go with them
Posted Aug 9, 2005 7:34 pm

SherpaKrotoRoute Climbed: DC with long re-route over Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: August 3rd, 2005  Sucess!


An awesome day! Saw Brent Okita as he descended on his 303rd summit! Told him to watch out - I was only 302 behind :) (He is truly, "the man!"). We took a one day refresher course with RMI, adn have only the highest praise for their organization. They treated our self guided group as one of theirs.

Snow bridges a bit shaky in spots (I'm not the lightest), so we hopped all of them. Route will be moved again as the seracs crossing over to Emmons look ready to take a ride. 9 of our group of 12 summitted

Posted Aug 8, 2005 9:48 am

climber514Route Climbed: D.C. Date Climbed: August 3, 2005  Sucess!
GREAT conditions... snowbridges are thinning, but still do-able.

Check out the report and photos at:

Posted Aug 7, 2005 8:09 pm

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