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Mount Ritter Climber's Log

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Bill KishSE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009

Bill Kish

A straightforward scramble and snow climb from Ediza with Kimberly. The glacier is mellow but the location is wild. Gorgeous summit views.
Posted Aug 17, 2009 1:30 pm

cjrandallClyde Variation sufferfest
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009


Originally planned to be a three-day adventure, we headed home a day early after getting off the planned route and wandering into the Clyde Variation. We climbed up the southernmost gully through solid snow and left the gully late, and didn't want to descend, to struck off across the snow bowl high. Climbed up the snow chute between the Ritter pinnacles, and encountered bulletproof ice and loose snow. Thinking I could get across the loose snow to the Southeast Glacier, I attempted the traverse and fell about 50 feet to the rock face and loose crud below. Was fortunate not to be hurt by hitting the rocks with my feet in front of me. Sufficiently sketched out enough to gingerly descend the loose rock to the more solid snow below and loop around the pinnacle and out following existing climbers' boot prints in the snow. Next time, we'll avoid the Clyde Variation and stick to the normal route!
Posted Aug 4, 2009 6:09 pm

TheRootsterfrom Lake Ediza  Sucess!


My first alpine mountaineering experience, with John, Marlene, and Michael, more than 30 years ago. Hooked me for life. John was my climbing mentor/guru...he could be a gruff teacher, but he knew his stuff. Died in a bicycle accident while still in his 20s. I still chat with him on top of every peak I climb. Happy Trails, buddy, wherever you may be.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 2:34 pm

brucegSE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1976


Climbed with Greg and Carl. 5 days into the JMT and we had climbed Lyell, Banner, and Ritter. Then 2 weeks of rain.
Posted Apr 24, 2009 8:24 pm

gjonbelaySE Glacier August 9 1998  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 1998


Climbed Ritter and Banner on the same weekend with the PCS.

Trip Report

Posted Mar 23, 2009 7:10 pm

snowflakeSolo North Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1992


Kinda a spur of the moment thing.
Posted Mar 13, 2009 12:40 pm

xharvWest Slope from Ritter Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008


Class-2 all the way from the Upper Ritter Lake, if the right route is followed. Check the route description. No snow/ice encountered anywhere on the west slope this August. Conditions and classification could be different after a heavy snow winter. By the way, about eighty parties signed up SPS summit register thus far in 2008.
Posted Aug 28, 2008 4:07 pm

kevin trieuSE Glacier  Sucess!

kevin trieu

Lake Ediza is beautiful. This climb is where I first set my eyes on Pookie.
Posted Aug 27, 2008 5:08 pm

dpsiebert North Face  Sucess!


Climbed with Sierra Challenge folks. Beautiful area.
Posted Aug 23, 2008 4:37 am

ElwoodNorthface(r/h chute)/SE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008


Set-up basecamp at Ediza Lake for 2-nights, while enjoying the climb of Mt. Ritter via the northface, desending the S.E. glacier route. I then spent two days of cross-country travel over Iceberg lake, Cecile lake, & Minaret lake, with awesome views of the Minarets! Great 4-day adventure!
Posted Aug 4, 2008 8:20 pm

Sierra Ledge Rat1992: Solo N Face  Sucess!

Sierra Ledge Rat

Clyde variation
Posted Jul 17, 2008 11:23 pm

DigglerN face (Muir route) up, SE glacier down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008


Starting at 7.37 instead of 6.00 (from camp at Ediza Lake) like originally planned (stayed up & hung out with later than anticipated Dutch & Jim, whom I’d just met at the adjacent campsite- very cool guys) proved fateful, as I missed the return shuttle by ~1:50 (I could have spent less time at the summit- that, combined with the late start, would’ve made the difference). I am thus typing this entry at work the following day after approximately 1 hour of sleep since summit/return day yesterday (it’s going to be a long day).

Regardless, it was a beautiful day, despite the day prior having numerous hail/rain incidents, as well as rapidly-moving early morning clouds that initially caused me some concern.Oh yeah, there were TONS of mosquitoes too- I probably killed a few hundred of the little bastards myself. Horrific. Anyway, aside from the snow being quite soft, conditions were splendid. The area surrounding Ritter & Banner I believe to be one of the prettiest in the Sierra. Always a joy to be there.

The route that ol' Muir picked out was a gem- a steep N face climb up from the glacier, good exposure & quite enjoyable. A very nice way to follow in the footsteps of a legend. Summited at 12.44, staying until 13.29. Views up top were spectacular, particularly with everything higher up still having a mantel of snow. Great day.
Posted Jun 23, 2008 11:25 am

96avs01Slog from Minaret Vista  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2008


After the Memorial Day weekend snow left the high country dicey with 1-2+ feet of unconsolidated snow we opted for a super slog of Ritter from the locked gate at Minaret vista. Climbed the Clyde variation of the SE glacier route almost exclusively in snowshoes (based on our previous experience above the Hourglass Couloir on Mt. Dade a few days earlier), with the exception being the traverse of the SE glacier where we opted for crampons. Views were great, we didn't see another person from TH to TH, and even caught a ride from the Reds Meadow store manager back up the road to the gate. Great trip!

Trip Report
Posted Jun 6, 2008 7:37 pm

paisajeroamericanolong day hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2007


I think I took the Clyde Variation Route. There was some snow around, but it didn't slow me down too much. It was really cloudy during the approach, so navigation was a bit tricky. Great views once I finally made it to the top, as the skies cleared up in my honor. I think you can see Half Dome from the peak. The dog made it up as well. Bravo!
Posted Oct 17, 2007 11:53 pm

leftySE Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007


Soft snow conditions, no crampons needed for this afternoon climb.
Posted Sep 14, 2007 9:27 pm

EastcoastMikeSE Glacier


Hiked it on Columbus day weekend 2006. Beautiful day, beautiful mountain. Did it as an overnight and took our time to enjoy it, it was glorious!
Posted Sep 12, 2007 11:02 pm

ZingeRitter/Banner Dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007


Awesome day, warm temps and no wind. Climbed with Adamus, 13hr round trip.
Posted Sep 11, 2007 1:14 am

AdamusRitter and Banner from Agnew via the Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007
Awesome climb! The snow on the saddle was a bit soft for my crampons. My points just cut through the snow like butter, even though it was still early in the day. A smaller snowfield at the base of the north face was quite icy though, and I was glad my crampons were sharp for that. Took the right chute up through some class 3 ledges, which was very enjoyable. The ramp was snow-free and full of loose rock, so we took the class 3 bypass on the side. Descended the SE glacier, which was snow-free as well. 13 hours R/T. Tagged Banner too.
Posted Sep 9, 2007 11:12 pm

DonnoSE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007


With Peter & Rahil. 10-1/2 hrs r/t from Ediza, by a variation to the standard route.
Posted Aug 28, 2007 9:41 pm

Dave SNorth Face (Left chute)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007

Dave S

Climbed with Anthony B. Great day in the mountains!
Posted Aug 21, 2007 12:24 am

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