Mount Russell, East Ridge, Rockwell Variation

Traverse the north side of Upper Boy Scout Lake to near the inlet and start up the canyon following faint, steep, sandy trails moving up and staying to the right side of the drainage. What there is of a trail disappears often into the talus and scree and reappears when it gets sandy again. When you pass the second patch of green you will head back to the west again staying to the right side and gradually moving up towards the rock bands above through horribly loose sand. At this point we started taking three slightly different tracks so as not to knock any of the extremely loose rock down on each other.

Once at the base of the rock band we took the first feasible looking route up to avoid any more of the sand. Our route took us up and right on some third class ledges below some dark water stains and then back left above the stains.

 The climbing was not difficult but route finding and avoiding loose rock and sandy slab climbing proved to be a little more challenging. It appeared that if you went further up the canyon the rock band became less challenging but would increase the tedious slog through the loose sand and scree. 

Once above the rock band you get into the upper sand and scree slope heading towards the base of the head wall. Once again we took three separate tracks to avoid any rockslide on one another. This upper slope is incredibly loose. Of the 'two steps up, one step back' variety. As you gain altitude a small chute becomes visible up high on your right. Move past this and continue towards the base of the head wall until you reach a big, wide chute angling up and right.  Basically, keep going up until there aren’t any chutes remaining.

 

Head up this chute, continuing with the loose sand and rock. There is a little more solid rock in this chute but not much. Follow this chute to the top where you will find yourself just below the start of the East Ridge and above the plateau leading up from the normal approach which we used as our descent route after also summiting Mt. Carillon.

Scramble up a short distance to reach the East Ridge. Once there start on up, moving to the right, (north side ledges), whenever the ridge becomes too exposed or too hard. You’ll reach the eastern summit first, and scramble up and over it to reach the true western summit. This is a spectacular climb. No ropes required if you don't mind the exposure.