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Mount Saint Helens Climber's Log

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Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: May 3, 1987  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

It was the first weekend that climbing was again allowed after the eruption. The weather was unseasonably warm, and scantily clad climbers of both genders were in abundance. Within two weeks the new and generally hated quota system would begin, so 100s were taking advantage of this golden opportunity. The first look into the crater at the dome and of the crater rim were truly amazing sights. I had only climbed the mountain once prior to the eruption, unfortunately, on June 15, 1975, using the Forsythe Glacier route. The post-eruption climbs are not as satisfying, but St. Helens still offers a great opportunity for conditioning climbs and early-season fun. And that view into the crater never gets old. I've climbed it several more times, including a 3-generation effort by my dad, myself, and my son Ryan in 1993. My dad was 78 at the time, and Ryan was 14.
Posted Dec 21, 2001 10:42 am

dshoeRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: 08-00  Sucess!

dshoe

Hiked/climbed the Monitor Ridge Route as a day trip. Round-trip took about 9 hours or so, with about an hour stay on top. Did this trip in August, so there wasn't any snow to ascend; only a WHOLE LOT of loose scree! The views from top, of Mt Adams, Mt Rainier, Mt Hood, etc., were simply AWESOME though! Would definitely do this trip again, but would probably do it earlier in the spring, so that travel on snow could be done.
Posted Dec 21, 2001 9:43 am

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: 11/04/01  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

Climbed this trying to get one more in this year. Weather at the start was gloomy but just before timberline I hiked out above the clouds. Awesome blue sky and a white summit ahead. About 500 yards from the summit a storm blew in in a matter of seconds. Debated whether to finish up but I was so close, I dashed to the top, took a crappy photo and glissaded down in almost white-out conditions. Got kinda dicey at times as there is a large valley on the right and the left side of the ridge is a steep dropoff. There were maybe 15 people on this route the whole day and only about 7 summitted so I am glad I waited until winter to do this one.
Posted Nov 5, 2001 10:11 am

benRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: Spring, 1998  Sucess!

ben

We climbed St. Helens the weekend before permit season, so ended up adding an extra 10 miles of hiking through snow to the climber's trailhead. Definately worth taking skis for that next time. Once we got up on the ridge, the snow conditions were perfect for cramponing, if a bit icy for skiing.



On our way down, I was surprised to put my foot through a thigh-width hole in the snow - not sure if it was a bonna fide crevasse or not. I also vividly remember the sound of the ice from our crampons tinkling down over the re-freezing surface as we headed down during sunset. A beautiful, if long, day.



I would definately do this climb in the winter to avoid trudging up the ash and scree that's out in the summer.
Posted Oct 5, 2001 2:44 pm

HammerRoute Climbed: Worm Flow Date Climbed: March 24, 2001  Sucess!

Hammer

This was to be our first group climb of the year and I looked forward to summiting after getting avalanched off of Mt. Whitney.

We met at the parking lot at work and drove up to Washington in separate cars. Luckily it was early enough in the season that we didn't have to fight for permits and we were soon off to the trailhead. Unfortunately, the climber's bivi wasn't plowed so we were forced to start our day at 2700'. We set up our tents pretty much in the parking lot and got an early alpine start the next morning. Weather was excellent as we moved along through the night. As far as we could tell there was only one headlamp ahead of us. The four of us stayed pretty close to each other until Kevin and Rob started exercising their benefit of training and pulled away from us.

As we neared the final push to the summit, the weather started getting crappy, with the wind picked up with light rain/snow mix starting to pelt us. The lone climber ahead of us passed us on his way down describing the wind at the top as nasty. Shortly after, Kevin and Rob summited and I tried to get there before they came down but they had already started back down. As we passed, I tried to convince them to go back up the 40' , so we could get a picture, but they would have no part in it due to the weather.

As I reached the summit, I had a little time to look around before my uncle joined me on top. I checked the cornice dimensions and then laid down to peer over the lip into the crater. What an incredible sight. This has to be the most interesting summit that I have done to date just due to the massive destruction that resulted from the eruption.

After about 10 minutes, my uncle joined me. We took a few photos and continued to get blasted by the weather. We decided that we had better get going since the weather was deteriorating. The upper slope was pretty much wind scoured so we were forced to walk down in our crampons until we rounded the bend. I was sick of walking and decided to risk the fast descent via glissading. Fortunately, the snow quickly softened up lower down and we enjoyed some great glissading. I was descending so fast that my ears began to pop.

The final hike out seemed to go on forever. The weather had turned out to be just a quick squall and it was getting hot as we passed many people climbing up to who knows where. After what seemed like eternity we finally made the trailhead and drove home after getting some lunch at Jack's
Posted Oct 1, 2001 11:21 pm

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: August 17, 2000  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

I summitted in driving sleet and wind after climbing from my camp at the base of the lava flow. I was in Washington to climb Rainier, but decided to head to St. Helens for a warm-up climb and to enjoy the views of Rainier. So after a 6 hour flight and 3 hour drive from Seattle, I scored my permit at Jack's and was on my way to the mountain.



When I got to the parking area at Climber's Bivouac, I decided there was no way I was going to set up my tent in a parking lot. So I threw my gear together and started up the trail in the fading daylight. I reached the base of the lava flow at around 8:30, just as the sun was setting, and was glad to see that 2 other guys had also come up in search of more pleasant camping. We chatted for a while and then I headed to bed, hoping for an early start to beat the crowds.



The wind picked up during the night and I learned that the volcanic ash is not a very good medium for tent stakes. I woke at 6AM and started for the summit after stashing my gear behind some trees. I caught up with my two camp mates and was happy to climb with them since conditions were deteriorating. When we reached the upper pumice slopes, we were being pelted by sleet and hail and the wind was ripping at about 40 mph. We took some pictures at the summit and started down immediately. No views of Rainier as I'd hoped. On the way down, we passed lots of people, most of whom were turning around and heading down.



After lunch with my new friends at Jack's, I made the drive back to Seattle and caught the Rainier Shuttle. I hope to get back to Mount St. Helens at some point to climb in better weather and enjoy the views from the top.
Posted Sep 10, 2001 8:10 am

D SmithRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: June 3, 2001  Sucess!

D Smith

Started from the Climbers' Bivouac in fog. New, wet snow on the tent that morning.



Packed skis to the summit, eventually poking our heads above the clouds at around 6000'. Enjoyed a nice run down the mountain, with only about 1 mile between consistent snow and the car.
Posted Jul 26, 2001 5:29 pm

climbitRoute Climbed: Worm Flows Date Climbed: 5/18/1995  Sucess!

climbit

Climbed the standard spring and winter route up the Worm Flows from the snow park. It was a super day on the 15th year anniversary weekend of the eruption. Brilliant weather and only 13 hours round-trip from the car! :-) Solo. But met up with Locke and his dad and Elise and Peter (a great bunch of folks) on the summit and had a great glissade down. Then we ate Mexican. Decided to move to Washington state that weekend. Then did it.
Posted Jun 27, 2001 5:45 pm

scot'teryxRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: 05/24/01  Sucess!

scot\'teryx

This was our (Alison and I) second attempt at summiting this once perfectly shaped volcanoe. We rounded up a few friends (Joseph and Kieran) and headed up the night before and stayed at Marblemount. Not until the next day did we out that the road to the Climbers Bivouac was actually open a few days before we got there! So we shot down to Jacks at 6am and picked up our permits (you must have permits if you travel above 4800 feet). Once at the dry trailhead we headed up the trail. Very low level grades through old growth forest, you weave you way through what you would expect to see on just about every other puget sound trail until you get to the first clearing that offers views to the south and to the East with Majestic Mt Adams showing off.



Once out of the tress and above the timberline you get site of a small peak that literally a large bunch of boulders. This is a good opportunity to set a marker or mark a waypoint on your GPS (reason to be explained later). From here you can see the many false summit ridges and pieces of the upper mountain.

The trail is marked with large post that are easy to follow, but it is always good to mark your trail in the snow with whatever markers you brought. From this point we had snowfields or the rocky ridges that we could ascend, and we went back and forth, but the ridges were difficult at times because of the Pumice Stone and all the loose rock and gravel. Make sure to have the rest of you team follow a little further behind than normal as there is plenty of rockfall that is caused by ascending these types of ridges. The snowfields had plenty of melting time so it was a little sketchy near the edges of the rocks where they met the snowfields, but other than that, the only other dangers were the snow crevasses that we spotted quite often on the way up. It is a good idea to mark these areas as you want to choose the right glissade path for the way down. After all, this is one of the many fantastic Glissade Routes in the Northwest.



We did not encounter hardly anyone on the trail this day, except for a few skiiers, and about 5 others ascending. We only saw 3 folks summit during the time we were there.



The snow was really yucky, yet holding quite well. Almost all conditions of snow were met that day, as we encountered some ice near the summit that was hard to get your boots firmly placed, so always remember to bring your crampons in the winter/spring months. Ice Axes are recommended by the Park, and I would say they should be required.
Posted Jun 26, 2001 11:04 pm

RyleRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: 6/17/01  Sucess!

Ryle

Did the whole thing in sneakers and a t-shirt, although most people looked at me like I was an idiot (but I don't think many people would have been uncomfortable in sneakers). The ice axe came in handy for glisading and for taking the rim of the volcano around to the peak. Snow was really soft even in the morning (I started at 6am).
Posted Jun 21, 2001 6:54 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Monitor Ridge Date Climbed: June 17, 2001  Sucess!

Josh

When I attempted St Helens two years ago, I was thwarted by bad weather and horrendous postholing. This time the conditions were great. I spent over an hour on top admiring the surrounding giant volcanoes and gazing into the crater (and waiting for Ryle). Glissaded most of the way down.
Posted Jun 19, 2001 12:04 pm

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