Mount Shasta Climber's Log
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|wyopeakMike||one great glissade|
|I hiked up Avalanche Gulch back in 1992. There were lines of people going up. I was given a survey on the way down by a lovely ranger woman on the way down asking if it was busy. That was 16 years ago, I could not imagine the traffic today. It was a great time, and a spectacular summit, the views are sublime. I really liked the view of the Trinity Alps. I remember having to wait in line to sign the summit register. The glissade down was a real treat. A fan of snow flying over my head from the speed. I had even made a trash bag diaper to go even faster. A bigger elevation gain than even the Grand Teton, but with a very fast return. A mountain like no other, especially with all of the crazy cosmic legends and bigfoot sightings.|
|Posted Jun 1, 2008 7:21 pm|
|shknbke||via AG dayhike |
Date Climbed: May 22, 2008
|This was probably the toughest ascent I have ever done in terms of physical effort needed just to reach the summit. It took me a little over 9 hours to summit as a dayhike due to high winds above the Red Banks. I felt good prior to this point. I ended up traversing all the way left below the Red Banks to the last chute, which had a fair amount of thick ice that required some front pointing. On the way down we found the chute with the best conditions which was one to the right of the top of the Heart. The snow was too hard/sun cupped to glissade much.|
|Posted May 27, 2008 2:35 pm|
Date Climbed: May 18, 2008
|Long day, soft snow, good times all around though. Day trip via AG.|
Much better as a snow climb than a scree climb.
|Posted May 17, 2008 11:56 pm|
Date Climbed: May 12, 2007
|Summited via Casaval Ridge. Had to traverse to the west face at the catwalk due to minimal snow on that part of the route. Camped two nights at the first window and had beautiful weather... although on the descent, after taking our time and still on the mountain @ 2pm, heard a WHUMP! while traversing the slope between WFG and our camp at the window. A little frightening!|
|Posted May 16, 2008 7:48 pm|
|gomez13||West Face Gully |
Date Climbed: May 10, 2008
|Second try on this route. Bad weather first time turned me back. Good weather and better conditioning was key this time. Also did Avy Gulch in 2002.|
|Posted May 13, 2008 8:24 pm|
|peakrat76||Avalanche Gulch |
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 1974
|Solo climb up the standard route. Awesome peak - great views. Super glissade on the way down.|
|Posted Apr 23, 2008 1:34 pm|
|danman3156||Great Ski Down |
Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2008
|Skinned up under intense sunshine. Camped, summited and then skiied down. Awesome run, it goes on forever.|
|Posted Apr 17, 2008 10:01 pm|
|SillyUncleKarl||Avalanche Gulch |
Date Climbed: May 10, 2007
|I was planning to do one of the lesser used routes. But, being my first trip up, and solo, I stuck with the popular avalanche gulch route, 3:30 start. I was very glad I did. This is not a mountain to be taken lightly, heavy wind turned most back. The altitude hit most of the rest of us pretty hard. But very memorable!|
|Posted Apr 15, 2008 6:25 pm|
|ClimbingJunkie||My first 14er!! |
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2006
|Great two day ascent of my first 14er!! From Bunny Flat to Helen lake, then up and back to the car by 10am the next day! Awesome experience!|
|Posted Mar 30, 2008 10:40 pm|
|snowflake||Every month of year|
|Climbed in every month of the year (not all same year, though). October is the worst time as is very ICY on upper part of Hotlum/Wintun ridge(favorite route). Routes: AG, WG, Hotlum Glacier, Bolum Glacier, Hotlum/Bolum Ridge, Hotlum/Wintun Ridge.|
|Posted Mar 21, 2008 3:35 pm|
|dswink||Avy Gulch |
Date Climbed: May 26, 2007
|Attempted Casaval Ridge in 4/2007 but turned around by weather.|
Summitted via Avalanche Gulch in 5/2007.
|Posted Mar 9, 2008 7:38 pm|
Date Climbed: Dec 10, 2007
|Attempted to summit via Casaval Ridge. I started at the Bunny Flat Trailhead. Snowhoed to the Sierra Lodge/Cabin. Climbed the steep ridgling past the lodge up to the base of Casaval Ridge to 9800 feet. Had to turn back because critical gear left behind. Conditions were as follows; sunny, 50-100 mph wind gusts on ridgeline, ics covered scree on ridge, 10 inches to 2 feet of snow along route.|
|Posted Mar 3, 2008 3:29 pm|
Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2008
|Bunny Flat was closed, so our team of 7 had to start from McBride Springs. We camped at Horse Camp for 2 nights. Our primary goal was to prep/train for Denali. We abandoned our secondary goal of summiting due to our limited time, the additional distance, lack of acclimatization, and the importance we placed on Denali prep. |
We hit great weather (55F) and the team training was very productive though. We practiced crevasse rescue, setting running belays and fixed lines, and pulling sleds while roped. All are easy, but important to do as team.
|Posted Mar 3, 2008 1:49 pm|
|Ambret||My Favorite Mountain |
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2004
|Summitted via Avalanche Gulch route on second try with college roommate/best buddy Rob. Great climb on a near-perfect day. This made up for our failed attempt three years before, when we turned back due to rockfall -- especially after watching someone almost take one in the face.|
|Posted Feb 22, 2008 11:38 pm|
|jimegan||MT SHASTA |
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2003
|CLIMBED AS A PREP HIKE FOR RANIER WITH LVMC FROM BUNNY FLATS TH|
|Posted Feb 6, 2008 8:30 pm|
|Shirley Lam||Better when... |
Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2004
|the avalanche gulch is covered in snow!|
|Posted Jan 30, 2008 10:18 pm|
|A very fun route. The glissade is particularly memorable.|
|Posted Jan 12, 2008 7:46 pm|
|Bonesaw||Casaval Ridge in Early Spring |
Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2004
|Awesome climb! This was my first foray into the world of mountaineering and I'm hungry for more.|
|Posted Jan 11, 2008 9:12 am|
|jdmorris||My Playground |
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007
|2010 - 7/04 - Casaval |
I finally make it up Casaval and experience the Catwalk. Despite the late season the world above 12.5k feet is solid rime ice. Glissaded Avy Gulch to descend.
2009 - 3/14 - Green / Sargent's
My first solo attempt of Shasta went poorly when my attempt was squashed by strong winds and extremely cold wind chill. At least I made it up to see Shatarama point from above. I'll be back.
2007 - 6/15 - Hotlum / Bolum
Mattyj and I headed up (actually down from WA, this time) to check out approaches to the north side of the mountain and ended up making a one day trip direct to the summit and back. Mattyj wrote all about it here. It was a flawless day on a fantastic route although the blue ice was a bit intimidating and the ice near the top of the route before attaining the summit saddle was a little rotten.
2007 - 4/05 - Casaval / West Face
Mattyj and I planned to start at Hidden Valley, but decided instead to head up further to First Window on Casaval and were met with thin looking snow conditions that led us back up the West Face, proper. Mattyj once again wrote all about it, here. Despite some low clouds on our approach day, the summit day was as good as it gets on any mountain, anywhere, and miraculously the mountain was beautifully devoid of other climbers!
2006 - 2/11 - Casaval:
My first time up on Casaval was a good time with Mattyj and Lessthanjoey and my buddy, Dan, but by the time we camped at 10,000 ft camp it seemed no one wanted to join me for a summit bid. I convinced Joe to get up relatively late and we headed up but had to deal with deep snow, cold wind and far too late of a schedule. Despite not summiting, it was still a beautiful couple days and Matt's picture from that trip is still one of my fav's.
2004 - 6/26 - Avy Gulch
Dan, lessthanjoey and myself all climbed Avy Gulch in a one day push. Unfortunately, I didn't sleep for the 30+ hours, prior. There was much adventure with my contacts turning opaque and getting stuck to my eyes and the resulting snowblindness of fiddling around in the bright noon sun for a couple hours, but we did make it to the summit and back to the car. As usual, it was a perfect, beautiful day.
2004 - 6/12 - West Face:
This was the inspiration for the second trip a couple weeks later. Dan and I carried way too much stuff up way too late in the day to Hidden Valley. It was a terrible slog without snowshoes and when I got sick just shy of Hidden Valley (not altitude, but some stomach trouble) we decided to turn back.
2003 - 7/20 - Avy Gulch:
This is where my whole mountaineering career started. My good friend Ken and I headed up to Lake Helen on a typical hot, sunny Shasta day and after an evening of camping we joined the hordes for a summit push. My HAFE (high altitude flatulence expulsion) started giving me trouble and I decided to wait at the summit plateau while Ken went to the summit. Many months of regretting tagging the summit on my first try pushed me to do lots of climbing and spend more time outdoors. Ahhh... the memories!
|Posted Jan 8, 2008 11:36 pm|
Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2004
|Avalanche gulch route. Summit day was very windy|
|Posted Dec 25, 2007 5:00 pm|