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eckdoerryRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 1997  Sucess!

eckdoerry

A great climb for beginners: took a group of novices up during great weather. The icy chute up through the redwall was exciting for all. Windy on top of course. The glissade down the snowfield was a hoot.
Posted Nov 28, 2003 12:36 pm

Scott PierceRoute Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Date Climbed: June 1997  Sucess!

Scott Pierce

Climbed once in June 97, and twice in July 97.
Posted Nov 3, 2003 8:40 pm

jverschuylRoute Climbed: hotlum/bolam; west face; clear creek; and avalanche gulch Date Climbed: first ascent September 3, 1990  Sucess!

jverschuyl

All routes were interesting. In order of interest I would rank them as: Hotlum/Bolam; West Face; Avalanche Gulch; and then Clear Creek. This mountain sure has gotten busy over the years. Still feels like an airplane at the top.
Posted Oct 24, 2003 1:00 pm

dvsanbtRoute Climbed: avalanche gulch Date Climbed: june 4, 2003  Sucess!

dvsanbt

lots of soft snow - right from the parking lot. camped at (where is?) lake helen. early next morning, the snow had hardened enough to use crampons (much better than postholing mid calf deep as the day before). great views of the glaciers from the top. was fun glissading back (glissaded almost the whole way back to the horse camp - as much as the soft afternoon snow would allow).
Posted Oct 12, 2003 5:57 pm

Mike SullivanRoute Climbed: Cassaval Ridge Date Climbed: July, 1989  Sucess!

Mike Sullivan

On a warm day in July we started out of the parking lot before dawn. The conditions looked quite good and we opted to hike the Cassaval Ridge route. As the sun came up we were quite happy for our decision, as we watched Avalanche Gully fill up with people. Doing the summit pyramid was a rush....!!! and then we descended Avalanche Gully with a retreat to Shasta City for the Buffet Dinner there. A wonderful, and high milage day.
Posted Oct 10, 2003 5:47 pm

Jeff HRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: September 28th, 2003  Sucess!
Climbed to Helen Lake on Sat. with my brother and camped under a sky full of bright stars. Heard rock fall most of the night so decided not to start climbing until sunrise. Chose the snow field (what remained of it) to the left of the heart and made the summit by 10:00am. Only people we saw were three climbers heading up misery hill on our way down. Awesome weekend!
Posted Oct 8, 2003 10:19 am

GuiltyRoute Climbed: Sargents Ridge Alternative Date Climbed: 09/20/98 and 05/12/01  Sucess!

Guilty

Both times I went up with a friend. One time a my friend got sick. So I soloed to the top in a freak hail storm. The other time we hit a storm on top where we couldn't even walk. We had to crawl above Red Bluffs. I can see why John Muir went to the steam vents to stay warm.
Posted Oct 8, 2003 12:04 am

rgreeneRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 1 September 2003  Sucess!

rgreene

Pretty much the end of the season, snow ascent to the right of the heart, we opted for the third chimney up through the red banks (all on loose scree). Six people summitted on that day, and we saw them all! Hung out at the top for about 30-45 mins and enjoyed a nice glissade down to Helen Lake after! Trip Report and Pictures
Posted Sep 29, 2003 11:10 pm

OtomaxRoute Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 14, 2002  Sucess!

Otomax

A lot less crowded than Avalanche Gulch
Posted Aug 20, 2003 7:35 pm

Mark Van GilderRoute Climbed: East side Date Climbed: 19 Sept 2001
Climbed the east side. Did not summit due to hitting exposed ice @13700' with no belay equipment. Still a great 2 days on the mountain.
Posted Aug 16, 2003 12:55 am

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: July 13, 2003  Sucess!
Another single day solo climb. It was full moon, so I started early. Left Bunny Flat at 10:30 pm on Saturday. Perfect conditions, didn't see anyone else on the route. There was strong wind above 13,000', probably about 40 mph. I summited at 7:45 am on Sunday. Found a perfect, sheltered from the wind and very comfortable spot on the summit and enjoyed it for about 45 min. Came down Avalanche Gulch and got back to the car at noon.
Posted Aug 6, 2003 11:25 pm

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 28, 2003  Sucess!
A warm-up climb before a trip to Rainier next weekend.

We left Bunny Flat at around 2 am. My friend wasn't feeling too well that day and half way up the Gulch he decided to turn around. I summited at around 10 am. Perfect weather, NO WIND. Glissading on the way down was awesome.
Posted Aug 6, 2003 11:12 pm

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: May 24, 2003  Sucess!
My second try on Casaval Ridge. I did the climb solo in one day. I started at 2:30 am from Bunny Flat, summited at around noon. There were only 2 people on the summit and they happened to be the guys I'd met a month earlier on Whitney!

Good weather, clear sky, strong wind above 12,000', ca. 40-50 mph. I met only three people on this route, two of them turned around at 10,000. That's the way to avoid crowds! Came down the Avalanche Gulch.
Posted Aug 6, 2003 11:05 pm

bernardhohmanRoute Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 19, 2003  Sucess!

bernardhohman

Finally made the trip to this mountain and it was worth it! I had been wanting to climb Shasta since 1993. Very hard climb for me but it felt great to stand on the summit.
Posted Jul 25, 2003 2:51 pm

big_gRoute Climbed: West Face from Hidden Valley  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2003

big_g

Wonderful snow climb and an awesome glissade. It was a bit wet but 4,000+ feet of glissading is awesome!

Other than that, it was amusing for a Colorado 14er veteran to watch the California rental crowd suffering like this was Everest. :) On the other hand, my respect goes out to those sea level dwellers who summited. Good job!
Posted Jul 25, 2003 3:28 am

SharonRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 16, 1995  Sucess!

Sharon

Partner: Steve Reynolds



Summit bitterly cold with some wind also; feet went numb there; coldest summit I've ever been on. Many fumeroles. Dramatic rime on summit pinnacles.
Posted Jul 23, 2003 8:49 pm

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 20, 2003  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

Drove down with my buddy Steve from Seattle early Saturday morning. Started hiking up about 12:30 pm and got to Helen Lake about 5:15pm after taking about an hours worth of rests on the way up. Great weather so far. Set up camp and talked to the ranger who said a thunderstorm was rolling in the following day and suggested an early start. So, we started climbing about 3:30 am and enjoyed the low angle snow slopes below the Heart.



A climber in front of us dropped a crampon and while he was putting that back on, Steve went left and I went right. He headed up the couloir most were going through and I headed to the right edge of the Red Banks and traversed around the back side onto the glacier before rejoining the hike up to the base of Misery Hill. And what a misery it is, loose scree in hot sun by then. Steve looked at me at one point and said "It sure is good I like this $hit." Slow going took us to the icefield before the summit pinnacles. Quick rest below the final rock and we were up taking summit pictures with no storm in sight.



The glissade down made the trip for me. What took us 3-4 hours in the morning only took us 20 minutes and we were back at Lake Helen. 3000 feet on our butts with snow flying out from the bobsled-like tunnels. Super fun. Broke camp and were back at the car by 2:30 pm on Sunday. Burgers at the Hi-Lo Cafe in Weed on the way home!
Posted Jul 22, 2003 11:23 am

Dan WinterRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 6/12/03  Sucess!

Dan Winter

Climbed solo my first time up. I have wanted to climb this mountain for a long time and the drive down from Seattle was well worth it.
Posted Jul 10, 2003 6:49 pm

FelsbergRoute Climbed: Clear Creek Date Climbed: September 1, 2001

Felsberg

PICS
Posted Jul 10, 2003 4:55 pm

winzelerRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch (left of The Heart) Date Climbed: July 4, 2003  Sucess!

winzeler

Our party of four camped a few hundred feet below Lake Helen and left around 2:45 am. We stayed to the left hitting a few steeper pitches while avoiding all the other parties, climbing left of The Heart and then right and up through the Red Banks. On to Misery Hill and the Summit at 11:45 am. The standard route was very crowded as was the upper mountain.



Side note: My hydration system leaked in the first 1/2 hour, soaking my extra thermal clothes in my pack and leaving me with a partially filled Nalgene bottle for the entire climb. My advice to climbers is to leave the error prone hydration bladders to the approach hike and only use Nalgene bottles on summit bids.





Posted Jul 7, 2003 10:13 pm

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