Mount Shasta Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|dvsanbt||Route Climbed: avalanche gulch Date Climbed: june 4, 2003|
|lots of soft snow - right from the parking lot. camped at (where is?) lake helen. early next morning, the snow had hardened enough to use crampons (much better than postholing mid calf deep as the day before). great views of the glaciers from the top. was fun glissading back (glissaded almost the whole way back to the horse camp - as much as the soft afternoon snow would allow).|
|Posted Oct 12, 2003 5:57 pm|
|Mike Sullivan||Route Climbed: Cassaval Ridge Date Climbed: July, 1989|
|On a warm day in July we started out of the parking lot before dawn. The conditions looked quite good and we opted to hike the Cassaval Ridge route. As the sun came up we were quite happy for our decision, as we watched Avalanche Gully fill up with people. Doing the summit pyramid was a rush....!!! and then we descended Avalanche Gully with a retreat to Shasta City for the Buffet Dinner there. A wonderful, and high milage day.|
|Posted Oct 10, 2003 5:47 pm|
|Jeff H||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: September 28th, 2003|
|Climbed to Helen Lake on Sat. with my brother and camped under a sky full of bright stars. Heard rock fall most of the night so decided not to start climbing until sunrise. Chose the snow field (what remained of it) to the left of the heart and made the summit by 10:00am. Only people we saw were three climbers heading up misery hill on our way down. Awesome weekend!|
|Posted Oct 8, 2003 10:19 am|
|Guilty||Route Climbed: Sargents Ridge Alternative Date Climbed: 09/20/98 and 05/12/01|
|Both times I went up with a friend. One time a my friend got sick. So I soloed to the top in a freak hail storm. The other time we hit a storm on top where we couldn't even walk. We had to crawl above Red Bluffs. I can see why John Muir went to the steam vents to stay warm.|
|Posted Oct 8, 2003 12:04 am|
|rgreene||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 1 September 2003|
|Pretty much the end of the season, snow ascent to the right of the heart, we opted for the third chimney up through the red banks (all on loose scree). Six people summitted on that day, and we saw them all! Hung out at the top for about 30-45 mins and enjoyed a nice glissade down to Helen Lake after! Trip Report and Pictures|
|Posted Sep 29, 2003 11:10 pm|
|Otomax||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 14, 2002|
|A lot less crowded than Avalanche Gulch|
|Posted Aug 20, 2003 7:35 pm|
|Mark Van Gilder||Route Climbed: East side Date Climbed: 19 Sept 2001|
|Climbed the east side. Did not summit due to hitting exposed ice @13700' with no belay equipment. Still a great 2 days on the mountain.|
|Posted Aug 16, 2003 12:55 am|
|Zzyzx||Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: July 13, 2003|
|Another single day solo climb. It was full moon, so I started early. Left Bunny Flat at 10:30 pm on Saturday. Perfect conditions, didn't see anyone else on the route. There was strong wind above 13,000', probably about 40 mph. I summited at 7:45 am on Sunday. Found a perfect, sheltered from the wind and very comfortable spot on the summit and enjoyed it for about 45 min. Came down Avalanche Gulch and got back to the car at noon.|
|Posted Aug 6, 2003 11:25 pm|
|Zzyzx||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 28, 2003|
|A warm-up climb before a trip to Rainier next weekend.|
We left Bunny Flat at around 2 am. My friend wasn't feeling too well that day and half way up the Gulch he decided to turn around. I summited at around 10 am. Perfect weather, NO WIND. Glissading on the way down was awesome.
|Posted Aug 6, 2003 11:12 pm|
|Zzyzx||Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: May 24, 2003|
|My second try on Casaval Ridge. I did the climb solo in one day. I started at 2:30 am from Bunny Flat, summited at around noon. There were only 2 people on the summit and they happened to be the guys I'd met a month earlier on Whitney!|
Good weather, clear sky, strong wind above 12,000', ca. 40-50 mph. I met only three people on this route, two of them turned around at 10,000. That's the way to avoid crowds! Came down the Avalanche Gulch.
|Posted Aug 6, 2003 11:05 pm|
|bernardhohman||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 19, 2003|
|Finally made the trip to this mountain and it was worth it! I had been wanting to climb Shasta since 1993. Very hard climb for me but it felt great to stand on the summit.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2003 2:51 pm|
|big_g||Route Climbed: West Face from Hidden Valley |
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2003
|Wonderful snow climb and an awesome glissade. It was a bit wet but 4,000+ feet of glissading is awesome! |
Other than that, it was amusing for a Colorado 14er veteran to watch the California rental crowd suffering like this was Everest. :) On the other hand, my respect goes out to those sea level dwellers who summited. Good job!
|Posted Jul 25, 2003 3:28 am|
|Sharon||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 16, 1995|
|Partner: Steve Reynolds|
Summit bitterly cold with some wind also; feet went numb there; coldest summit I've ever been on. Many fumeroles. Dramatic rime on summit pinnacles.
|Posted Jul 23, 2003 8:49 pm|
|Brian Jenkins||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 20, 2003|
|Drove down with my buddy Steve from Seattle early Saturday morning. Started hiking up about 12:30 pm and got to Helen Lake about 5:15pm after taking about an hours worth of rests on the way up. Great weather so far. Set up camp and talked to the ranger who said a thunderstorm was rolling in the following day and suggested an early start. So, we started climbing about 3:30 am and enjoyed the low angle snow slopes below the Heart. |
A climber in front of us dropped a crampon and while he was putting that back on, Steve went left and I went right. He headed up the couloir most were going through and I headed to the right edge of the Red Banks and traversed around the back side onto the glacier before rejoining the hike up to the base of Misery Hill. And what a misery it is, loose scree in hot sun by then. Steve looked at me at one point and said "It sure is good I like this $hit." Slow going took us to the icefield before the summit pinnacles. Quick rest below the final rock and we were up taking summit pictures with no storm in sight.
The glissade down made the trip for me. What took us 3-4 hours in the morning only took us 20 minutes and we were back at Lake Helen. 3000 feet on our butts with snow flying out from the bobsled-like tunnels. Super fun. Broke camp and were back at the car by 2:30 pm on Sunday. Burgers at the Hi-Lo Cafe in Weed on the way home!
|Posted Jul 22, 2003 11:23 am|
|Dan Winter||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 6/12/03|
|Climbed solo my first time up. I have wanted to climb this mountain for a long time and the drive down from Seattle was well worth it.|
|Posted Jul 10, 2003 6:49 pm|
|Felsberg||Route Climbed: Clear Creek Date Climbed: September 1, 2001|
|Posted Jul 10, 2003 4:55 pm|
|winzeler||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch (left of The Heart) Date Climbed: July 4, 2003|
|Our party of four camped a few hundred feet below Lake Helen and left around 2:45 am. We stayed to the left hitting a few steeper pitches while avoiding all the other parties, climbing left of The Heart and then right and up through the Red Banks. On to Misery Hill and the Summit at 11:45 am. The standard route was very crowded as was the upper mountain.|
Side note: My hydration system leaked in the first 1/2 hour, soaking my extra thermal clothes in my pack and leaving me with a partially filled Nalgene bottle for the entire climb. My advice to climbers is to leave the error prone hydration bladders to the approach hike and only use Nalgene bottles on summit bids.
|Posted Jul 7, 2003 10:13 pm|
|Vertigo soul||Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 29, 2003|
|A classic climb. Three days of clear and hot weather. Surrounded by tents at Helen Lake (approx. 120+ people). We shot lots of video, although not suitable for all ages. The route was pretty straight forward, with some heavy gusts above Misery Hill. This was our second attempt after a huge storm ended our first attempt last year. The summit was worth the wait.|
|Posted Jul 7, 2003 3:34 pm|
|rcorby2||Route Climbed: A-Gulch Date Climbed: June 29, 2003|
|Great weather on a great mountain. Helen Lake was packed so we got up at 2am thinking we would get ahead of the masses. Left camp at 3am and there were already 8 or 9 parties on route. |
Route is in good condition. Glissade path through Red Banks is HUGE and ugly.
|Posted Jul 7, 2003 10:51 am|
|Misha||Route Climbed: West Face Gully Date Climbed: July 5th, 2003|
|Awesome day and beautiful weather! Left the camp in Hidden Valley (~9,200') at 6am, reached the top of the West Face (~13,300') at 11:30am, and summited at 1:30pm. This is a one grueling snow route, much more fun than Avalanche Gulch! We took the variation to the right of the steep direct chute above Hidden Valley, which ended with the ridge traverse over ~50 degree snow field. So much for 'bypassing' steep snow :). Snow during the first half of the day was firm and icy which made it an easier ascent with crampons. In the afternoon it turned into 'mashed potatoes' perfect for sliding down and glissading. |
All in all, unbelievable experience!
|Posted Jul 7, 2003 1:09 am|