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Mount Triumph Climber's Log

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kgriggsNE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2015

kgriggs

Great day in the mountains! We were planning on a three day adventure but ended up doing it in two. Could only get a permit for Saturday night. Left the car at 6am arrived at the col at 11am and setup our tent and headed over for the climb, hit the summit just before 5 pm and were back at the tent at 9:30pm. The 15.5 hour push was tiring but made for a relaxing Sunday.
Posted Jul 6, 2015 9:30 pm

seanoUp NW ridge, down W face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2015

seano

It's such a striking peak that I had to do it one way or another. Thought about doing the NE ridge, but opted for the easier NW instead; the crux is steep and a bit loose, but short-ish, and it's all there. Trip report.
Posted Jul 2, 2015 7:42 pm

setrentNE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2006
Car to car in just under twenty hours. We had originally planned to bivy on the ridge, but the bugs (and some cold beer at the car) drove us off. The route was very enjoyable with excellent views into the Pickets on mostly solid rock. We climbed it in three belayed pitches and three running belays. We climbed the 5.7 offwidth crack, which was easier than it looks. A single 60M rope is perfect for the descent. The rap stations are numerous and bomber. One of my favorite climbs.
Posted Jul 14, 2006 10:05 am

hkutukRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: August 13-14, 2005  Sucess!

hkutuk

Another awesome weekend in the N. Cascades. It was still midday when Jim and I arrived at the col and decided to cross the glacier. A big chunk of ice broke loose and slid just as I was about to cross it, which freaked me out. We continued up the gully and two pitches up on the ridge to a great bivy site. The setting and views were just spectacular. The ridge climb the next morning was great fun and finally we managed to simulclimb parts of the ridge in about 9 pitches. We reached the summit but the long descent was on our minds. We made it down in 5 double, 2 single rope rappels and downclimbed the knife-edge ridge to the top of the access gully. It had taken us actually less to come down than up, not bad. The hike back out was still long into the dark evening hours and the usual early morning arrival in PDX, gotta love the N. Cascades...
Posted Aug 23, 2005 2:18 am

jtschanzRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: August 13-14, 2005  Sucess!

jtschanz

Haydar and I climbed the NE Ridge on a gorgeous weekend with no one else around. The approach was tougher than we expected with a heavy pack, but we still made it to the col by 1pm and decided to keep going. Hardly any glacier is left and we were able to traverse across on the slabby rock except for one 20' ice crossing. The gully was easy and soon we were at our bivy site two pitches up on the ridge. Awesome place to spend the night! The climbing the next morning was easy but fun, and soon we were at the top. 6 double-rope and 2 single-rope rappels later, we were at the gully and hiking back to the col. Even the hike out is strenuous - without the countless huckleberries I might not have made it! Back to the car at 9pm for the long drive home ...
Posted Aug 19, 2005 12:47 pm

rpcRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: July 25, 2004  Sucess!

rpc

Deflowering the summit-log page for Triumph falls to me I see....oh well, somebody's got to do it.



Shirley and I climbed this as a Saturday/Sunday outing. Drove to TH Friday after work. Hiked in on Saturday morning in sweltering heat. The approach (after the initial saddle, ~4900') is quite pretty. The gully to the col had some painful scree but not too bad. One party was bivied in the main area at the Col. We found OK bivy sites above them on slabs. Early arrival at camp allowed for much R&R (=eating and sleeping). Plenty of snow and running water at Col. Up at dawn on Sunday. Cross glacier/snow field to reach start of climb. Went up low 5th class terrain left of the class 3+ gully. Moats are really beginning to open up. Did the route in approx. 8 or so pitches stretching our 60m ropes to 300' or 400' with some simulclimbing. Pleasant, mostly easy climbing on mostly solid rock. The climb UP goes surprisingly fast. Heather ledges were kind of spooky (would be VERY spooky if wet) with no pro (incl. pro-less belay). Great views all the way. Great summit. Descent was looooooooong (longer than the climb). A combo of single and double raps with much belayed downclimbing - all intermixed. Back at col at 5pm and hiking back by 5:45. At car by 10pm and change (had a couple minor route finding issues). Drive 2 hrs. Seep 2 hrs at rest area on I5. Seattle folk have it good. Get home by 6am. Shower. Back at work <--sucks!



Beautiful climb.



PS this was actually our 2nd attempt on this route. Last year, hiked in to Thornton lks. in drizzle which was supposed to taper off....instead it started showering. Doing the Thornton Lks. trail twice is one time too many.
Posted Jul 26, 2004 1:08 pm

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