From camp in upper Titcomb Via Sphinx Glacier and across the ridge to upper Mammoth Glacier. Rope up once in couloir, plenty of protection placements along the sides. One or two pitches of hard snow. Once on top easy scramble to summitt. I don't recall it being very difficult. Rap off large blocks at head of the couloir on descent.
South Couloir, scary experience Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009
Ascended the South Couloir from camp in Upper Titcomb Basin. Couloir was out of condition with plenty of rotten rock and rubble near the bottom and rotten snow and ice higher up. A storm moved in as we started the descent. Graupel was flowing down the couloir, a foot deep in places! Never seen anything like it. Lightning struck the summit when we were still in the upper portion of the couloir. We were clipped in to an anchor at the time and I got zapped through my arm on the wet rock! Terrifying.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe