Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 22.3415°S / 42.72514°W
Additional Information County: Nova Friburgo
Activities Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Big Wall, Mixed
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Elevation: 7497 ft / 2285 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Pico Medio is the 2nd highest mountain of Tres Picos Group, with 2285m. It’s the central spire between Pico Maior ( 2316m ) and Pico Menor ( 2262m ). This mountain isn’t very climbed, because Pico Maior is the main mountain there. Just arriving on the top that is possible to see the fantastic view of other mountains surrounding Medio. There are huge walls from all the sides, being the West the higher one, reaching 500m verticals.
Pico Medio and Menor

Getting There

Pico Medio is localized in Salinas Region – Nova Friburgo town, the paradise place for climbing in Brazil. The main city near Salinas is Rio de Janeiro ( 160km ). Departuring from Rio, take the road to Nova Friburgo ( RJ-116 ) and arriving there, turn on the road known how TereFri Road ( RJ-124 ). At km26 , turn to the left again to Salinas valley. The road is signalized and, there are many plates indicating to Salinas. A land road put you in the base of the Massif and, the last place that you can stop your car is in Refúgio Tres Picos, 4km far of the mountain. From this point, you have to take the trail behind the last house before Vale dos Deuses ( Deuses Valley ) and, hike over a hard trail to get the base. There are two options to get the summit: Climbing vertical walls or, walk by slippery and dangerous trail.
You must to cross Pico Menor (2262m ) before Pico Medio if you choose the trail.
Camping Tres PicosCamping close to Tres Picos

Red Tape

No fees to climb Pico Medio, just give your name and your document numbers for your safety at the entrance of Tres Picos State Park.
Timetable to visit: Every day/time.

Bring your waste returning to the entrance please!

Camping

Pico Médio just has one place to camp , on the top but, it’s not recommended because the exposition and it’s not too safe. The best place to camp there is Refúgio Tres Picos
Refugio Tres PicosRefúgio Tres picos


Mountain Conditions

The trail to Pico Medio isn’t good, with many places eroding, being very dangerous to cross.
At winter is the best season to climb, because the rock is most dry than Summer and Fall season. Make a choice to go there at winter, the days are clear, cold and the sun shines every day. The temperature can drop at the top till –8°C.

Nova Friburgo current weather

Pico Medio Climbing Routes

Route Graduation Pico Medio – 2285m
Beija Flor 3º IIIsup A1 Pico Médio / North Face
Flor de Gravatá ?? Pico Médio / North Face
Bagas do Médio 5º E5 Pico Médio / W Wall

At 2285m vertical wall