| Ixtlan Buttress, 5.9-5.12a Mountain/Rock |
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| Ixtlan Buttress, 5.9-5.12a   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Nevada, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 36.03417°N / 115.46333°W Activities: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall | Page By: Dow Williams Created/Edited: Mar 11, 2009 / Mar 31, 2009 Object ID: 497094 Hits: 370 Loading... Page Score: 88.78% - 15 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview/Approach
Ixtlan Buttress is to the west of the better known Frogland Buttress on Whiskey Peak at the south entrance to Black Velvet Canyon. Ixtlan Buttress showcases one of the more popular 5.10 trad lines at Red Rocks, Triassic Sands, 5 pitches, 730’, another Joe Herbst classic put in way back in ’72 and freed in ’79 by his party as well. The two other popular routes on Ixtlan Buttress are Misunderstanding, two pitches at 5.9, and Ixtlan (the route itself), eight pitches at 5.11c.
There are a total of 16 published routes (2009) on Ixtlan Buttress. Triassic Sands and Ixtlan take you to the summit of Whiskey Peak which offers a walk off descent whereas the rest of the routes are shorter and need to be rapped. To extend the day after climbing Triassic Sands, we also climbed at the Rad Cliff which is easily accessed via the Whiskey Peak eastern descent.
Black Velvet Canyon itself contains some of the more popular routes at Red Rocks, Epinephrine, Dream of Wild Turkeys and Prince of Darkness. The ease of approach from the parking area as well as the short approach from the canyon floor to the base of these routes add to their attraction, not to mention the rock is quite stellar. Whiskey Peak routes, however, involve more of an ascent up the hill before you actually enter the canyon via the wash. You park at the Black Velvet trail head which can be reached off of NV 160. During 2008, the regular Black Velvet dirt road was under construction and thus closed. As of 2009 it is re-opened with a paved trailhead off of the highway. Drive through the paved parking area and access a dirt road at the east end. Follow this road as it crosses a dip that will be difficult to navigate with a low clearance vehicle depending on conditions. Continue to a fence and follow the road as it turns left. This bumpy road ends at a trailhead area. From the parking area, follow the old road until a trail leaves it heading for the canyon. The trail eventually splits with one fork heading down to the wash and the other heading up the hill towards the red cliff band on your left below a row of protruding buttresses (Whiskey Peak). Frogland is the 2nd buttress from the left and is made quite obvious by a large roof about midway up. Once you break through the red cliff band above by its left end, hike right and stay low passing under Frogland Buttress and aiming for Ixtlan Buttress which is the next one west and marked by a tall arch from the ground to about a third of the way up. The crack up the middle of this arch taking on the roof is Ixtlan. Triassic Sands is on the wall to the right of this towering arch. Route Description(s)The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the Buttress
Left of the Arch
Kenny Laguna- 250’- 5.10d/
Perplexity- 150’- 5.10d/
Misunderstanding- 160’- 5.9/ There to do Ixtlan, but the winds were the worst I have seen. This two pitch gem is about the most protected (from the wind) climb on Whiskey Peak. The stem box lead was a lot of fun. 2nd pitch was worthy as well. Both short, suppose the rope drag from the roof is the reason. I thought about combining them, but would have shorted my partner. We are curious why this route does not continue. Dow
Miss Conception- 155’- 5.10c1d/
Return to Forever- 230’- 5.10d/
Mazatlan- 150’- 5.10d/
In the Arch
Ixtlan- 665’- 5.11c/
Matzoland- 70’- 5.12a/
Right of the Arch
Cabo San Looseness- 220’- 5.10c/
Sand Felipe- 180’- 5.10a/
Sandblast- 320’- 5.10a/
Triassic Sands- 730’- 5.10c/ Radeks notes (the link) are way better than any guidebook as is the norm. Look for 65F in Vegas to make this route partially comfortable. Too much wind coming out of the canyon can make it a tad chilly. I led that 2nd pitch which is fantastic by RR standards, no question about it. After a reachy left hand edge move, I thought the pull above was not overly difficult. The hand crack above was great, thank god since I could not feel my fingers anymore. Placing gear at will over a long pitch is why everybody talks about bringing so many cams. Enjoyed that upper 5.10a pitch as well, gave you a little bit of everything as you twisted, turned and pulled your way through that corner. The 5.8 was also outstanding for the grade. Hit the Rad Cliff on your right on the way down to do Azkaban Jam to extend the day. Dow
Cole Essence- 60’- 5.11c/
Archaeopteryx- 485’- 5.11a/
Off the Lip- 80’- 5.10d/
Desert Wave- 80’- 5.11b/
Descent off of Whiskey PeakIf you ascend one of the two longer routes on Ixtlan Buttress that take you to the summit of Whiskey Peak, you can descend relatively easily via a col between Whiskey Peak and Black Velvet Peak.
You have two options. If you are descending back to the parking area, you can descend off of the col between Whiskey Peak and Black Velvet Peak to the left, 2nd and/or 3rd class down climbing or if you are climbing further down canyon, you can descend to the right of the col.... one or two raps may be required via this option depending on your down climbing experience. You will pass by the ever popular Dream of Wild Turkeys and Prince of Darkness and will most likely see at least one party on this section of the Black Velvet Wall.
These are all trad lines and will require an assortment of gear as spelled out in Jerry’s Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide. The routes leading to the top of Whisky Peak allow for a quick descent from the col between Whisky Peak and Black Velvet Peak. Carrying shoes up for this descent would be worthwhile. The routes are north facing and most pitches are well protected from the sun, even somewhat chilly if spring climbing, so take a jacket! (I need to read my own notes more often).External LinksRed Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM
Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association
DowClimbing.Com Red Rocks
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