Mr. Sneezy, 5.10

1st Pitch- 50’- 5.10/ I am an avid off-width climber and thought this short problem was a bit stout for the grade. There are approximately three moves midway up that are void of a chicken wing, heel to toe or knee jam, three of the more efficient off-width techniques. I faced in and made slow progress with an insecure arm bar and one foot squirming around. The left face offered little in terms of traction, typical of the standard moss covered and less traveled granite for this area. I had two C4 #4’s with me and they were both tipped out a bit. Better pro would include a #5. Once you can get a chicken wing at about 3/4's, it is much easier with a mantle to the top of this slightly detached formation forming the off-width. Comfortable gear or slung belay. Mr. Sneezy, 5.10, 3 Pitches, Comp Wall, Castle Rocks State Park, Idaho, May, 2013