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Normal Route

Normal Route

Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Huaraz - Ancash - Cordillera Blanca, Peru, South America

Object Title: Normal Route

Route Type: Basic Snow/Glacier Climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: F - 7 hours from base camp.

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Andinista

Created/Edited: Oct 14, 2005 / May 12, 2006

Object ID: 167128

Hits: 2172 

Page Score: 0%  - 1 Votes 

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The passage from Huaraz to the barrier for cattle that closes the valley lasts alrrededor of one hour in mini bus or all land. The door is more or less to 1 km of the beginning of the footpath that leads to the Churup Lagoon. One is the turistica excursion of a day with more popular exit in huaraz.

Four hours are nesecitan to complete the ascent to the camping bases, located to the bottom of the Broken Cayesh, to about 4.300 meters. You do not forget to be with the carrier so that it makes come to the guard of the door that cuts the access to the valley. This one lives in a town of the low part of the valley and is necessary to compensate to come to open the door personally to him.

Route Description

Easy summit that is crowned in the day from the camping bases. To take the left pack animal road that raises until Opens Villón, the col located between San Juan and Maparaju. Before arriving at the col, to cross the glacier more or less horizontally in Northeast direction thus to reach the slopes the Northwest of the Maparaju that we will overcome until the top.

Also it can be gone until the Southwestern edge and be followed until the summit, although drawing for some difficulties. From the top we can contemplate to the fantastica needle of the Cayesh and its impressive profile.


Descend by the same route.

Essential Gear

There is numerous agencies that rent or sell material, although this one usually he is very spoiled. It is recommended to take the own one.

The clothes is the same one that in the Alps in winter, safe for feet and hands, that there are to protect better of the cold.

The gas cylinders are very dificiles to find and usually are expensive. It agrees to use gasoline small furnace, the white benzina is easing in ferreterias of Huaraz (Raymondi Avenue).

It is necessary to count on a sisten to purify the water. We will find a great variety of foods in the markets of Huaraz. The agencies usually sell liofilizado food packages lazy by other expeditions.

Technical equipment:

Long Axe, Crampons, Rope, Trek Poles and Several Pickets for crevasses.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Climbing the wall .Twisted rock on the NE side of Nevado San JuanNormal Route - Nevado Maparaju.Abra VillonDescending the Glacier.Glaciar Nevado MaparajuDescending the glacier
Rizlan descend in rapel from...