Welcome to SP!  -

North Arete Climber's Log

Sort By:

[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Viewing: 1-19 of 19    

Dow WilliamsNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2017

Dow Williams

With Danny Urioste. Had the mountain and everything above Gem Lakes to ourselves. You can easily solo the last 5 pitches on the ridge. We down climbed from the summit as well, no reason to rap. This was an unusual snow year and in mid July we had crampons on for the entire ascent from Dade Lake. Same for the descent of course. Poles are adequate for that degree of slope, for a competent alpinist, if you do not want to bring an ax. The 5.9 variation would be 5.7-5.8 most anywhere, is short and worth doing (clean crack). We took a single rack of cams to #2, no wires, and had plenty of gear left at the belays. You can almost always sling a boulder for the belay (every belay was on a ledge). This is actually a relatively secure on sight solo if you are looking for that. In mid July, we had sun the entire route based on being at the summit at noon.
Posted Jul 20, 2017 9:28 am

DariaIn massive hail/snow storm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011


Great route-very fun moves. Completed despite massive hail/snow/wind storm.
Posted Nov 4, 2011 9:54 pm

Vitaliy M.C2C  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2011

Vitaliy M.

No need to carry heavy camp, although camping in this area would be awesome too. Did it car to car after a long drive from the bay area. Started hiking at about 6:30am and hiked out part ways in the dark. Worth it. Great rock quality, and climbing. Took a 5.10 dihedral variation on 5th pitch. Too bad there are only 3 pitches 5.7 and up.
Posted Sep 6, 2011 10:09 pm

traverpenThe sun beat us
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2011


Climbed slow and rapped at pitch 9 because of impending darkness. Pitches 2 and 5 were awesome. Brought pirate chicken along, but he didn't appreciate being stuffed in the pack and no longer squawks right.
Posted Sep 3, 2011 11:06 am

Shane RathbunFailure
Date Climbed: Nov 14, 2010

Shane Rathbun

Attempted to climb in winter conditions with Aaron. Slogged through unconsolidated snow up to Dade Lakes, setup camp here. Time restrictions and lots of snow on the route lead to us to turning around just below the base.
Posted Dec 6, 2010 2:42 pm

Date Climbed: Nov 14, 2010


Will be back to finish you next summer.
Posted Nov 16, 2010 7:51 am

pratyushFun climb!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010


The first two pitches were early in morning, so felt cold. Rest of it was warmer and great fun. The ridge (exposed class 4 in my opinion) was the best part of the climb!
Posted Sep 26, 2010 8:27 pm

rhyangFriday the 13th !  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2010


Swapped leads with Justin on a nearly perfect summer day -- clear, not much wind, most of the route in the sun (except the crux pitch, of course :)

We belayed seven pitches, more or less as per supertopo. I led pitches 1, 2, 5 and 7. The exposure on the upper part of the ridge was fantastic, of course. We rappelled from slings near the summit block.

Brought a spare notebook for the summit register, but it seemed to be missing (it was not where I saw it the last two times I climbed BCS via the NE Ridge).

Spent the night before and after at Dade Lake -- great views of the Perseid meteor shower !
Posted Aug 14, 2010 9:57 pm

fossanan arete modified
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2010


With Jascha. Did a 5.9? variation on P2 to the left of the main route starting from the belay and the 5.10 variation on P5 noted in Supertopo. Bailed where the route joins the NE Ridge due to threatening t-storms overhead.
Posted Jul 25, 2010 4:55 pm

fatdadA fine day out.  Sucess!


A pretty manageable day from the trailhead with John Reyher in the early '90s I think. We simulclimbed after the wide 5.8 pitch, passing another party en route.
Posted Sep 12, 2008 4:19 pm

saladNorth Aretre  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008


Fine day with Mike Skaug. I believe we were the only ones the spire all day.
Posted Aug 4, 2008 2:46 pm

bighornmonkeyDone...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007


Did this climb car to car in one long day. Met some friends at the top who ascended the east rib. Spectacular route!
Posted Feb 14, 2008 12:11 pm

MichaelJIs this really 5.8?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007


Soloed this to break in a pair of new approach shoes (It worked: they broke; rock shoes might have been better). Climbed the route in 90 minutes. Eight hours car to car.
Posted Sep 9, 2007 3:48 pm

Vertigo soulNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007

Vertigo soul

Great climb! My first multi-pitch rock climb, believe it or not. After watching me the two days prior, my guide thought I could handle it. Learned a tone on this climb, which will definitely not be my last! Look forward to getting back.
Posted Aug 13, 2007 11:36 pm

forjanNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007


Swaped leads with Gibran. We belayed pitches 1, 2 & 5 as per Supertopo and simul/solo the rest. Very fun climb! I spent almost 1/2 hr taking out one of Gibran's #0 TCU's. Somewhat cloudy but no wind at the summit. We stayed up there 40 minutes (~ 13 hrs car-to-car).
Posted Jul 30, 2007 3:34 am

fossanaN Arete  Sucess!


Sep ?, 1995
Posted Apr 9, 2007 12:44 am

Flexfun route Aug/03  Sucess!


This one was extra fun 'cause I got to lead all the pitches while my partner carried the pack!
Posted Jan 13, 2007 5:13 am

DebNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005


Cold, wind, altitude woes....? I did NOT enjoy this climb but am proud to have completed it!
Posted Dec 4, 2006 8:06 pm

stoneman59-11  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2001


did this two days after 9-11. no planes in the sky and sadness are the memories of this climb.
Posted Sep 10, 2006 12:19 am

Viewing: 1-19 of 19    
[ Return to 'North Arete' main page ]