This was attempt #2 of the North Couloir after backing off two weeks earlier due to unsafe snow conditions. Approached via Mohawk Basin. Snow in couloir was still relatively soft. The fearsome cornice was frequently shedding snow down a large runnel on both of my early morning visits, this time to a much lesser degree. Don't climb up this runnel! Because the snow wasn't hard we all felt comfortable climbing unprotected, though the upper section is often protected and we came prepared with a rope, pickets and some rock pro. A great line that deserves a bit more respect than your average Colorado snow climb.
climbed the north couloir with sarah and dwight. the recent snows gave the couloir a softer top layer instead of the expected hard pack after the bend. we measured it at 52 degrees after the bend. it got steeper after that(55-57 degrees) but i don't know if it touched 60 degrees or not.