...for the description. I didn't know about the "ramp" at the op of the classic chute. I soloed the peak in 1993, first attempting the classic chute all the way to the top. It was steep as hell with a vertical pitch at the top (cornice remnant). I tried following the ridge from there, but I was over my head. I down-climbed all the way to the glacier and then ascended the right-hand chute (MUCH easier). The photos are really helpful.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."