...for the description. I didn't know about the "ramp" at the op of the classic chute. I soloed the peak in 1993, first attempting the classic chute all the way to the top. It was steep as hell with a vertical pitch at the top (cornice remnant). I tried following the ridge from there, but I was over my head. I down-climbed all the way to the glacier and then ascended the right-hand chute (MUCH easier). The photos are really helpful.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."