for the kind words! EMan, there was only one point when I thought I should commit myself if I got down eventually... fortunately the thought disappeared as soon as I found a nice knob ;-)
Nice climb and writeup Hamik. I've done it three times, but each time was a bit different and I had to rediscover the route because it's hard to remember. But here's what I recall about the third tower. It's definitely harder than the previous towers, and I've done between 1 and 3 pitches on it, depending on who I'm with. There's a boulder problem to get onto the steep part itself (a possible pitch), then a short traverse to a layback crack (there is a piton or two near here). In winter, this is where we roped up, and my friend fell on this section (albeit with a 65 lb pack), so it's not easy, but in summer it wouldn't be super crazy to solo it. The layback is perhaps 20m at most. Here's a picture of my friend just before he fell on the piton: http://www.summitpost.org/image/396147/483849/winter-whitney-basin-traverse.html
From there to the top is some slab which isn't bad. I'm sure you'd feel good soloing all of it except for perhaps the layback.
Nice job on the slabs. Sounds like they weren't easy.
For the final summit headwall, I've climbed the nice handcrack (steep but short straightforward) that leads straight out of the notch -- I think you did the same? Here's a picture of the place I'm talking about: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=483925 The first time I climbed it, this section intimidated me, and we were out of time, so I climbed a gulley a 100 meters to the West -- this was perhaps technically easier, but very unpleasant and not actually faster.
The layback looks intimidating! I think the slabs were mentally easier after I got off the snow. I don't recognize the handcrack you guys took out of the final notch... the crack I took was maybe 10-15 ft left/east of the notch and 20 ft above the gully; it was about three body-lengths long and hands/fingers. Didn't feel hard, but if I hadn't just done stuff like Double Cross and Touch and Go at JTree I would have been intimidated.
Thanks for the report. I'll be climbing it for the first time this weekend and you're report will be a big help. When I saw your self portrait in this report, it occurred to me that we ran into each other on the summit of Sill last month. I think you helped me and my partner identify polemonium for our traverss. You're directions were spot on...we were able to bag it! Thanks and hope to run into you on the trail soon.
I looked into it afterwards, and you're right--some maps do erroneously call that peak Polemonium (I think for historical reasons). I'm glad you found it! Have fun on LPP, and I'll be glad if this TR is useful.
SJD - May 31, 2010 12:23 am - Hasn't voted
Great job -Really enjoyed the TR too.
Blair - May 31, 2010 1:25 am - Voted 10/10
Nice JobOn a great route, I personally cant wait to do the north ridge. Thanks for sharing
EManBevHills - May 31, 2010 1:56 pm - Hasn't voted
ImpressiveAwesome adventure and T/R.
Now I know "for sure" you are committed -- or need to be! Haha.
hamik - May 31, 2010 5:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Thanksfor the kind words! EMan, there was only one point when I thought I should commit myself if I got down eventually... fortunately the thought disappeared as soon as I found a nice knob ;-)
mvs - Jun 1, 2010 12:22 am - Voted 10/10
Sounds like good adventureGreat TR, I envy all that sun!!
hamik - Jun 1, 2010 5:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Sounds like good adventureIf only we could have the Alps and that same sun ;-)
lavaka - Jun 1, 2010 4:38 pm - Hasn't voted
CoolNice climb and writeup Hamik. I've done it three times, but each time was a bit different and I had to rediscover the route because it's hard to remember. But here's what I recall about the third tower. It's definitely harder than the previous towers, and I've done between 1 and 3 pitches on it, depending on who I'm with. There's a boulder problem to get onto the steep part itself (a possible pitch), then a short traverse to a layback crack (there is a piton or two near here). In winter, this is where we roped up, and my friend fell on this section (albeit with a 65 lb pack), so it's not easy, but in summer it wouldn't be super crazy to solo it. The layback is perhaps 20m at most. Here's a picture of my friend just before he fell on the piton: http://www.summitpost.org/image/396147/483849/winter-whitney-basin-traverse.html
From there to the top is some slab which isn't bad. I'm sure you'd feel good soloing all of it except for perhaps the layback.
Nice job on the slabs. Sounds like they weren't easy.
For the final summit headwall, I've climbed the nice handcrack (steep but short straightforward) that leads straight out of the notch -- I think you did the same? Here's a picture of the place I'm talking about: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=483925 The first time I climbed it, this section intimidated me, and we were out of time, so I climbed a gulley a 100 meters to the West -- this was perhaps technically easier, but very unpleasant and not actually faster.
hamik - Jun 1, 2010 5:51 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: CoolThe layback looks intimidating! I think the slabs were mentally easier after I got off the snow. I don't recognize the handcrack you guys took out of the final notch... the crack I took was maybe 10-15 ft left/east of the notch and 20 ft above the gully; it was about three body-lengths long and hands/fingers. Didn't feel hard, but if I hadn't just done stuff like Double Cross and Touch and Go at JTree I would have been intimidated.
Norma R - Jun 1, 2010 8:36 pm - Hasn't voted
In aweGreat job Hamik! Really enjoyed the detailed TR. You are a writer and an alpinist.
hamik - Jun 2, 2010 3:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: In aweThanks Norma. I didn't know you did Kili! (That's you in the profile picture, right?) That must have been an awesome adventure.
davidvdr - Jul 16, 2010 12:29 am - Hasn't voted
This should be mandatory reading for LPPNRThanks for the report. I'll be climbing it for the first time this weekend and you're report will be a big help. When I saw your self portrait in this report, it occurred to me that we ran into each other on the summit of Sill last month. I think you helped me and my partner identify polemonium for our traverss. You're directions were spot on...we were able to bag it! Thanks and hope to run into you on the trail soon.
hamik - Jul 18, 2010 3:32 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: This should be mandatory reading for LPPNRI looked into it afterwards, and you're right--some maps do erroneously call that peak Polemonium (I think for historical reasons). I'm glad you found it! Have fun on LPP, and I'll be glad if this TR is useful.
glahhg - Oct 12, 2010 3:40 pm - Hasn't voted
sweetNice work dude!
Now for something bigger, harder, and scarier, eh?
aran - Nov 25, 2010 4:52 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice TRThanks for sharing in such detail, particularly of yourself. Great stuff, happy climbing!
hamik - Nov 28, 2010 9:21 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice TRThank you for the nice comment, aran. I'm happy to read that the mountains are calling you back :-)
blueshade - Jul 8, 2013 7:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Entertaining, informative, and insipring...Hopefully looking forward to this and much more soon. Thanks!
hamik - Jul 14, 2013 5:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Entertaining, informative, and insipring...It's cool to get comments three years later! I hope you enjoy the N Ridge; it's a fantastic route and it opens the door to so much more.