Climbed this last weekend after a few years of wondering, wondering that predated Skunk Ape's climb. No disrespect intended (indeed it probably means he has mad climbing skills), but I thought the climb was harder. Perhaps Fred Beckey fourth class but for me more like 5.4 or 5.5. Difficulties kept us off the actual ridge crest far more than I was expecting. Pretty good rock but hollow sounding flakes were common. The crux was near the top and we found bail gear (2 nuts and webbing) in the midst of it. I very nearly used the rope I brought, but not quite. For comparison, for me the crux is harder than DBE crest of northeast ridge; harder than the north ridge of the Fin; harder than the northeast chimney of the Devil's Throne in the 7 devils, harder than the upper sections of MT. Moran's CMC route (the last 400ish feet where many go unroped); and harder than the northwest buttress of WCP 10 and the ridge connecting that to Caulkens. It was easier than the Stur Chimney on Heyburn and the lower CMC on Moran. Just thought folks might like a second opinion on such a fine looking ridge.
Sorry, I've been accused of sandbagging before and told to stay away from that game. I didn't see any bail gear on the route and may have avoided some of your difficulties by staying further onto the west side when things got too spicy.
Deltaoperator17 - Nov 25, 2008 6:01 pm - Voted 10/10
WowVery cool camp site and pics!
Cheers
pioneerclimber - Sep 29, 2009 6:23 pm - Hasn't voted
my thoughts on routeClimbed this last weekend after a few years of wondering, wondering that predated Skunk Ape's climb. No disrespect intended (indeed it probably means he has mad climbing skills), but I thought the climb was harder. Perhaps Fred Beckey fourth class but for me more like 5.4 or 5.5. Difficulties kept us off the actual ridge crest far more than I was expecting. Pretty good rock but hollow sounding flakes were common. The crux was near the top and we found bail gear (2 nuts and webbing) in the midst of it. I very nearly used the rope I brought, but not quite. For comparison, for me the crux is harder than DBE crest of northeast ridge; harder than the north ridge of the Fin; harder than the northeast chimney of the Devil's Throne in the 7 devils, harder than the upper sections of MT. Moran's CMC route (the last 400ish feet where many go unroped); and harder than the northwest buttress of WCP 10 and the ridge connecting that to Caulkens. It was easier than the Stur Chimney on Heyburn and the lower CMC on Moran. Just thought folks might like a second opinion on such a fine looking ridge.
skunk ape - Oct 26, 2009 7:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: my thoughts on routeSorry, I've been accused of sandbagging before and told to stay away from that game. I didn't see any bail gear on the route and may have avoided some of your difficulties by staying further onto the west side when things got too spicy.