John Muir Wilderness > Lone Pine Peak > Northeast Ridge from the desert floor, IV, 5.6 > Climber's Log
Northeast Ridge from the desert floor, IV, 5.6 Climber's Log
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|asmrz||Third Time a Charm |
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2013
|My wife Penelope and I climbed the ridge August 8,9, 2013. It was the third time for me on this long (and seemingly getting longer) alpine ridge. Miguel Carmona and I soloed the ridge in 12 hours CTC in 1984, Rich Henke and I climbed the ridge in 3 days in winter of 94 and yesterday, Penelope and I climbed it again, this time as a two day climb. Pen did a wonderful job soloing most of the route, we roped the last 2-3 pitches, we were getting a bit tired just as the climbing got really steep. Happy 62nd Birthday, Pen!|
|Posted Aug 10, 2013 3:04 pm|
Date Climbed: May 21, 2012
|GREAT climb with even greater company.|
|Posted Sep 22, 2012 1:37 am|
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2012
|It was mostly easier than 5.6 by the line I took. It's not quite "classic", but still pretty fun, and the initial sand/desert hiking is not nearly as bad as I had feared. I spent 5h25 from car to summit, then walked down to Meysan Lakes and hitched back to near the car. Trip report.|
|Posted Aug 28, 2012 8:17 pm|
|jesu, joy of man's desiring||thirsty but fun! |
Date Climbed: May 23, 2012
|May 22-23, 2012|
The NE Ridge is more adventurous than the N Ridge! NE Ridge has hosted great adventures by some great climbers, eg, Smrz and Henke for the FWA, and speed solo ascents by Fossana, Gil Weiss, and later by the great Ben Horne, solo in winter, c2c in 11 hours!
We started hiking up from the desert floor late morning and it was unseasonably HOT. Then belayed for about 8 pitches, simul-climbed, then climbed the last 1000ft ropeless, avoiding the steepness before the notch.
First night we bivied about half way up the ridge, and were down to a half liter of water. We got thirsty! Sucked on a rotten mango for some juice.
The next day my partner found one shadowy crevice filled with snow—pure luck, for I was…really thirsty!
Traversing along under the high upper head wall, above the exposed NE face, has a great alpine feel. Very spectacular, though some snow patches made it spooky, climbing in rock slippers. The final 4th class rock chute is FUN.
We got down to an upper Meysan Lake at 10pm and camped there. At the Portal we instantly hitched a ride in the back of a truck to the desert floor. A nice windy ride! My humble scrabbling efforts on this ridge I dedicate to the memory of the remarkable Ben Horne and Gil Weiss.
|Posted Aug 8, 2012 3:16 pm|
|pmonks||Summer 2003 |
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2003
|Two day summer ascent (2nd night on summit) - mostly unroped, with some simulclimbing and 3 or 4 roped pitches here and there. The first 2000' of sand / scree slogging was pretty brutal in the heat. The climbing up higher was up to about 5.6 or so - there were some chossy unprotected slabs after the big notch that were a little sketchy.|
One cool feature was was a very prominent 1-2' wide pink dyke on the right hand side of the ridge higher up, which we soloed up for several hundred feet. We nicknamed it the "Stairway to Heaven" as a snow bank on a ledge just above the top of it allowed us to refill our water bottles.
We exited up the left hand of two obvious gullies splitting the headwall - it required a belay for one 30' rock section about halfway up (thought about doing it unroped, but a fall wouldn't be pleasant).
Great route, though I'd want to be in way better cardio shape before doing it again! ;-)
|Posted Jul 31, 2011 3:11 pm|
|fossana||ok route minus the descent |
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010
|Did this solo today. Rock quality is not so great and the more challenging sections were infrequent and very short. Prefer the N Ridge. If I ever do it again will use the Meysan Lakes descent and park on the dirt road that access the base of the route. The E Ledges descent sucked; part way down ended up traversing several canyons over for a more direct line to Olivas Ranch Rd.|
|Posted Jun 20, 2010 3:29 am|
|Blair||Winter Ascent Attempt Part 1|
Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2010
|Gained around 4300ft on this HUGE route before turning back, spent 2 days and had one bivy in a snowy cave. Found a much better spot for the next attempt, along with better perspective of the mountain. Kudos to all who have stuck through it to complete this big route. Will be returning, someday...|
|Posted Jan 20, 2010 11:36 am|
|danmerrick||August 2009 |
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2009
|Jay and I did this over two days in August. Spending the night on the route was very nice and the sunrise/sunset were worth having to carry two days worth of water. We simul climbed most of it, belayed a few spots that looked tricky and made one very short rappel off slings we found. We parked at the start, hiked out via Meysan lakes and hitched a ride down from the portal. ~13 hours of climbing.|
|Posted Sep 2, 2009 1:03 pm|
|asmrz||Winter Ascent- Early March 1994|
|Rich Henke and I climbed the ridge in winter in early March of 1994. Bivied twice on the route and summited/returned on the third day. Great winter climb!|
|Posted Apr 4, 2009 1:18 pm|
|asmrz||12 hours CTC in 1984 |
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 1984
|Miguel Carmona and I soloed this wonderful alpine route in July of 1984. We took rope and gear but didn't use either. We topped out and returned to our car in some 12 or so hours of hard effort. If you rope up on this line, it will become overnight trip, guranteed! This was the 3rd recorded ascent of the ridge, the second ascent was soloed by local Guides based in Lone Pine (per summit register).|
|Posted Apr 4, 2009 1:10 pm|
|glahhg||Winter Ascent |
Date Climbed: Mar 10, 2008
|Three days on the route with Scotty.|
|Posted Mar 11, 2008 12:18 pm|