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brutus of wyde

brutus of wyde - Sep 2, 2007 12:17 am - Hasn't voted

5.8???

OK, I admit it. I suck at underclings, especially unprotected ones. Nurse Ratchet and I thought the second pitch on this route was the crux. The OW wasn't too bad, and I avoided the last "5.9" finger crack by stepping right, out onto easy 5.6 (albeit unprotected) face.

Great route, thanks for the page. Wish I'd looked here before sending it. The 4.5 camalot beta is spot on.

Brutus

rpc

rpc - Sep 4, 2007 2:53 am - Hasn't voted

Re: 5.8???

Thank you very much Bruce.
I've regurgitated the ratings that the Nelson & Potterfield book give the pitches on this route (figuring I'm weak & that's why the "5.8" pitch felt harder than others for me). A few people had mentioned (& I also agree) that this pitch IS the crux of the route despite the ratings. I will make a comment on the route page to suggest this. Hope you had a good visit to WA and the weather cooperated (as was not the case on many weekends this summer).
Regards,
Radek

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