Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.81670°N / 35.16670°E |
Route Type:
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Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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V UIAA |
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Approach
Nearest village is Demirkazik which has a hut. From this point you can either rent a mule or tractor. You can reach to Arpalik Plateu by tractor but a mule can carry your stuff further. To Tekepinari high camp or somewhere up. But Tekepinari Camp is one of the best camping point in the area. You can find water everytime. (See maps) If you wanna go further you can follow Apiskar gorge or turn around Kucuk Demirkazik massive to get the col which seperates Kucuk and Buyuk Demirkazik.
Route starts here.
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Route Description
Route starts very easy (II, III UIAA) and follows a natural line. Almost in the middle of the ridge traverses right (and may be some down) a bit and continues up on a slab face with some space at right. After that section route reaches some parallel chimney like cracks (IV+, V UIAA). Then some water drawing slabs and the top of the section. At this part ridge was seperated from the main massiv by north chimney.
From this point you will rappel some 50 meters (2x25 m, or 50 m) aiming the Hodgkin-Peck Couloir. There are exposed anchors.
Climb up left and follow the ridge with the north wall on your left side.
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Essential Gear
Helmet, rope, harness and some camming devices.
Miscellaneous Info
SouthEast normal route is the easiest way to go down.