Made the climb late June of '08. Reached the 'schrund near the summit pyramid at sunrise with another party, who turned back. Managed to make it across the 'schrund only to be turned back by a crevasse and rapidly softening snow just over a pitch later. Such is life. Agreed that the W. Face looks more interesting.
We slogged up the normal route from below moraine camp in a half a day. The top snow/ice pitch was fun, the rest was a slog. The most amusing part of our trip was my loosing my headlamp down a crevasse. The direct route looked more interesting, I wish we had done that…
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."