Route Climbed: Spiral Route with a finish on Morning Date Climbed: 8/21/05
We topped out at the Notch, with no intention of reaching the summit since our route ended here. We climbed the Spiral Route and finished with Morning (5.7). Spiral is a fantastic mountaineering route and one of the best beginner alpine routes I have done. The route presented opportunities to get in some low grade technical climbing, scrambling, hiking and soloing. The route finding was not that bad. The descent absolutely sucked. My partner came very close to having an epic on the S side of the peak due to our ropes being stuck approximately 400' off the deck. We endured rain, snow, thunder and lightning on the way down. We should have opted for the walk-off but declined to do so because it was wet. But given the poor beta that we had on the rap descent, it would have been better. Somehow we missed the true rap line and ended up doing 2 raps (1 set up from the notch by us) and a second rap in a gulley that was protected by a chockstone and a Chinard piton. Approximately 250' below that we spotted some real anchors. After we freed up our stuck ropes byt sheer luck, we worked our way down to the anchors. From that point on, I knew we were home free. What a cool adventure.