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Mount Saint Helens Climber's Log

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matticusAwesome Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2014


Weather was awesome. Started around 0530, ran into 1 other group going up. Passed them and had a blast climbing the snow up the Worms Route, last 1000" needed crampons due to the ice. On the way down we glissaded, ran into a few skiers going up, temps were so hot people were in shorts and t-shirts.
Posted Aug 10, 2014 10:13 pm

matticusWinter Mess
Date Climbed: Nov 11, 2013


Climbed with 4 buddies, Monitor Ridge route, was our first time on the Mountain. Temps were too mild and the snow was slushy. Got to around 1000" below the top and had to turn around due to storm moving in. Visibility was zero.
Posted Aug 10, 2014 10:09 pm

DieselAbsolute blizzard
Date Climbed: May 18, 2014


Rainy day at trailhead changed to blizzard half way up. Snow all the way up. At the top I couldn't see more than 15 ft, if that. I hiked to the lip of the volcano without even knowing it was the end of the trail: lucky I saw the edge no more than 6 feet from it. The no views weather conditions made this a not so memorable hike. Hiking on snow I believe was much easier than hiking on ash.
Posted Jul 22, 2014 9:16 pm

MudvilleMonitor Ridge - Sunny Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2014
Started our climb at 4:45 AM from Climber's Bivouac. Wore shorts and a T-shirt for the entire climb (a little brisk at first walking through the wood line but warmed up quickly). The wood line and Monitor Ridge route were free of snow (although there was still packed snow in the gullies along the ridge). Guide posts were clearly visible for the entire route. Clear day for the climb. Around 6,000 feet of elevation to about 8,000 feet, there was a sustained wind blowing from the west at about 15 miles per hour. Surprisingly, however, zero wind at the caldera rim - extremely pleasant on top. Had to walk part way around the rim (across some snow fields - just a touch slippery without crampons) to gain a view in to the caldera and Spirit Lake to the north (the snow cornice around the rim was still thick and tall enough to block some of the views and, obviously, would not want to walk out on the cornice). On the descent, did glissade down some of the shorter stretches of snow in the gullies (just wearing my shorts) but it was a bit slushy. Walked down on some of the more level sections of snow in the gullies (which was faster than the ridge line) but, mostly, stayed on Monitor Ridge for the descent. Returned to Climber's Bivouac by 1:00 PM. All in all, an excellent day to climb.
Posted Jul 11, 2014 3:19 pm

mbtMother's Day Fun!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 11, 2014
Went up the Worm Flows route with about 1000 other people for the annual Mother's Day Climb. Many of the climbers were in costumes (the usual dresses + Star Wars themes), and it all around felt like a party atmosphere. Camped at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park the night before -- luckily, we were in the smaller parking lot (the one without the bathroom), which I heard was much quieter than the main parking lot. I imagine there were plenty of hung over climbers that day. We started up about 6 am and didn't hit snow until around Chocolate Falls, which was way later than when it hit it last year around this same time. Even after Chocolate Falls, we spent a good deal of time scrambling on the ridge rather than in the snow. I think we were consistently on snow for the last 2/3 to 1/2 of the climb. The snow was soft, and although we brought crampons, we didn't need them at any point.

Hit the very crowded summit around noon, and the weather started to deteriorate while we were waiting for the rest of our climbing party to arrive. In spite of a forecast showing no clouds and little wind, a cloud rolled in, and we got both wind and poor visibility. We glissaded down, and luckily one of the members of our party had placed some wands, which let us know we were going the right way. In spite of the limited snow at lower levels, we were able to glissade almost the whole way to Chocolate Falls, which was similar to what we did last year with more snow. Glissading was slow, though, and the chutes had various pits that required a bit of climbing around. Still beats walking, though. We got back to the car around 5.

Overall, a super fun day with a fun crowd but not your typical nature experience due to the crowds. One other note regarding the crowds, picking up passes the night before took forever, and getting to a computer or on a wifi network is difficult if you don't have your permit printout. So come prepared and if possible, try to show up earlier in the afternoon.
Posted Jun 26, 2014 7:29 pm

x83415Ski Descent (sort of)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2014
Departed Climbers Bivuac at 0450, got to the true summit at 0820. Hung out for 45 mins or so. Snow had began softening up and I skied down almost to tree line. The ridges had no snow and I had to kick of skis twice to cross on the rocks. Snow was goodfor spring/summer ski. Got back to car at 1130.
Posted Jun 25, 2014 7:15 pm

PDuckXMonitor Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2014
Stayed at the Climbers Bivoac the night before. If you have time, go explore the Ape Caves.
Started at 6:00 am with a party of 24. On the hike through the forested portion that group broke up into 3's and 4's depending on speed. Weather was overcast and cool but OK. Once we got up to the weather station the weather started to deteriorate quite quickly. Rain, Sleet, snow and wind.
We made it to the top where the weather was just slightly better than lower. Only thing visible was the top of the crater, but we were there.
Of course when we all back at camp, the weather broke and the sun came out. Oh, well. Gives me an excuse to do it again.
Posted Jun 16, 2014 5:11 pm

Mike AustinWorm Flow Trail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 13, 2014

Mike Austin

Good Climb ... was slushy towards the 4,800 marker, but icy at the rim.
Posted Jun 11, 2014 2:29 am

MattDurkeeMonitor Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2004


Actually went to the true summit to the West, didn't seems like most people bother to. Proceeded to hike the Loowit trail around the mtn. following the climb.
Posted Jun 8, 2014 11:22 am

Fairley8Best view from the top  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 5, 2012


Started from the Marble Mountain Sno Park at 5:45am. Climbed the standard winter route up Worm Flows. Amazing views from top including Mt. Hood to the south, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Rainier to the north. 55 degrees and no wind at the summit was quite a surprise in early February.
Posted Jun 7, 2014 6:42 pm

yadahzoemtnFirst Cascade Volcano  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 15, 2001


One of my first mountains and the first of my Cascade Volcanoes. With Kevin and Doug. Wonderful trip.
Posted May 10, 2014 4:32 pm

WendyKHistorical Event  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2012


Something pretty cool about being alive during the Mt St Helens explosion, playing in the ash at Moses Lake as a kid, climbing the mountain and staring into the crater.
Posted May 2, 2014 3:50 pm

nlahueworm flows  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 26, 2014


Great climb of the worm flows route. Got brief views of hood, adams and rainer. Snowboarded down from the summit on some pretty icy stuff. Had a brief period of white out on the way down.
Posted May 1, 2014 9:44 pm

pschlaisMonitor Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2012


Other than being a bit windy, perfect weather.
Posted Apr 26, 2014 6:08 pm

ThorsChosenWorm Flows  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2014


A lot of people at the Marble Mount Parking lot the night before, around 50 cars or so. I think close to 200 people had permits for 04/13/14. I started climbing at 0330hrs to get ahead of the crowd. I think I was the first one to get to the true summit for the day. Beautiful morning with great views.
Posted Apr 18, 2014 12:05 am

CarvWorm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 13, 2012


Worm Flows route, nice glissade down.
Posted Jan 22, 2014 3:17 pm

KevintheclimberSummit success   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012


Generally a beautiful day. The climb up was fun, and a bit easy. However- i do remember the descent being a bitch
Posted Dec 27, 2013 11:32 pm

Cascade ScramblerSecond time is a charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2013

Cascade Scrambler

I had unfinished business with this mountain after getting blown off of the Worm Flows route in the worst white-out I've ever experienced. This trip was wild, too.

I car camped at Climber's Bivouac, and was on the trail at 5:15. I hit treeline in no time, and spent half an hour or so waiting out an absolutely gnarly lightning storm. After I began ascending, I noticed a gorgeous double rainbow off to climber's left; I hoped this would be a good omen. *Just* prior to sunrise, I took a series of the most amazing pictures I've ever taken of Rainier. I had to stop once to wait out a torrential downpour for about 10 - 15 minutes, and at the Plate Boundary Observatory Station I had to wait out winds that kept picking me up and knocking me down.

Once the winds subsided, I hauled ass as fast as one does at this altitude towards the summit ridge. I've heard people say that the traverse over to the true summit is loose and dangerous- well yeah, it's an active volcano. However, it's not as bad as advertised, and it's worth the trip. I had the true summit to myself for 30 - 45 minutes before the next group arrived. I ended up being the unofficial "official" photographer for the next 10 people or so that made the trip to the true summit.

The views to the north east were obscured by low clouds, but the views in all other directions were stunning. I booked it back down the trail and managed to make it home for the Seahawks game that afternoon. What a great, glorious day!
Posted Nov 30, 2013 10:15 pm

locke456Great Winter Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 5, 2011


Route: Monitor Ridge

We decided to wait out permit season on this one, and it was totally worth the wait. We lucked out with a great, clear weather day (except for some high winds that tried to blow our tent away). The climb itself, even in December snow, is a pretty easy one along Monitor Ridge, but because it's St. Helens, you still feel like you're tackling some huge alpine monstrosity. We needed crampons a bit at the end, but more for peace of mind than anything else. Oh, and the rim cornicing at the summit was scary, so be careful if you go in late season...
Posted Oct 7, 2013 10:49 pm

Robert HollingsworthMount Saint Helens via Monitor Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2013
Great day on the summit of the mountain. The weather conditions were terrible all week but managed to clear up the day of our climb. There was about a foot of snow that was a little icy but softened up quickly in the morning sun. Could see Rainier, Adams, Hood, and Jefferson as well as the Northern Cascades. A great day to be on the mountain!
Posted Oct 6, 2013 6:11 pm

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