Jack Daniels - Aug 24, 2003 11:28 am - Hasn't voted
Route Comment
It isn't difficult to get within 1 mile of the trailhead without a 4x4 or even a high clearance vehicle if you go by way of the Buttermilk Rd. A Toyota Corolla would do. The last 1 mile is steeper and most people park at the base of the first steep hill as there are good pullouts and nice, creekside camping. Refer to Peter Croft's book for a description of the Buttermilk Rd. approach.
Jack Daniels - Aug 24, 2003 11:35 am - Hasn't voted
Route Comment
The East Arete as originally soloed by Norman Clyde begins in the notch above the glacier as described here. However it is also possible to begin the ridge at a saddle east of peak 12,241. The ridge leading to the notch includes some wonderful class 3 and 4 scrambling, goes over (or around) a subpeak (13,000+), and then drops into the notch. There is some interesting downclimbing into this notch. Be prepared for a little 5.8/5.9 downbouldering, some very circuitous downclimbing, or else a short rappel. After the notch is reached, you're back on the standard route.
Peter Croft writes: "Clyde soloed the route in the summer of '35, another feather in his cap. However, on his ascent he missed out on the long initial ridge that makes this route so good. Nowadays, if you want full bragging rights you have to do the whole thing."
Jack Daniels - Aug 24, 2003 11:28 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentIt isn't difficult to get within 1 mile of the trailhead without a 4x4 or even a high clearance vehicle if you go by way of the Buttermilk Rd. A Toyota Corolla would do. The last 1 mile is steeper and most people park at the base of the first steep hill as there are good pullouts and nice, creekside camping. Refer to Peter Croft's book for a description of the Buttermilk Rd. approach.
Jack Daniels - Aug 24, 2003 11:35 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe East Arete as originally soloed by Norman Clyde begins in the notch above the glacier as described here. However it is also possible to begin the ridge at a saddle east of peak 12,241. The ridge leading to the notch includes some wonderful class 3 and 4 scrambling, goes over (or around) a subpeak (13,000+), and then drops into the notch. There is some interesting downclimbing into this notch. Be prepared for a little 5.8/5.9 downbouldering, some very circuitous downclimbing, or else a short rappel. After the notch is reached, you're back on the standard route.
Peter Croft writes: "Clyde soloed the route in the summer of '35, another feather in his cap. However, on his ascent he missed out on the long initial ridge that makes this route so good. Nowadays, if you want full bragging rights you have to do the whole thing."
Donno - Jun 18, 2015 9:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Route CommentJack, I believe you mean the complete route starts "southwest" of peak 12,241, not "east".
Donno - Aug 12, 2015 12:47 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentA Toyota Corrolla will NOT make it up Buttermilk Rd to the camp spot. You need a high clearance vehicle.
Craig Peer - Dec 19, 2015 4:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Route CommentThose roads change over the years. One big hard wet year can make for one muddy mess of a road !