To preface this commentary 5.8 is my limit on trad. lead an my offwidth technique basically sucks!
The first pitch is the best pitch on lead that I have ever done! Stemming for 60-80ft was a blast, especially with the great pro on the pitch.
Now the 2nd pitch was the scarriest lead I have ever done. I heard 2nd hand that you need really big pro to protect that pitch, then I heard 1st hand that it would be fine with out it. My comfort would have been served greatly had I been carring a #4.5 and a #5 camalot. I used my #4 to protect the traverse into the crack at the start, so I had nothing over a #3 at that point. I was able to get a couple pieces in before the piton but past the piton I had to run it out about 30ft - basically to the top. It was super scary. I would do it again in a minute but with a couple bigger pieces.
If you are at all stronger at leading than I am and have a couple big pieces of pro - then bypass the line at Durrance and get on Wiesner's! What a blast!
scottkasten - May 5, 2003 7:10 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentTo preface this commentary 5.8 is my limit on trad. lead an my offwidth technique basically sucks!
The first pitch is the best pitch on lead that I have ever done! Stemming for 60-80ft was a blast, especially with the great pro on the pitch.
Now the 2nd pitch was the scarriest lead I have ever done. I heard 2nd hand that you need really big pro to protect that pitch, then I heard 1st hand that it would be fine with out it. My comfort would have been served greatly had I been carring a #4.5 and a #5 camalot. I used my #4 to protect the traverse into the crack at the start, so I had nothing over a #3 at that point. I was able to get a couple pieces in before the piton but past the piton I had to run it out about 30ft - basically to the top. It was super scary. I would do it again in a minute but with a couple bigger pieces.
If you are at all stronger at leading than I am and have a couple big pieces of pro - then bypass the line at Durrance and get on Wiesner's! What a blast!