sorry for the numerous typos and stuff...i don't claim to be good at that stuff at all, always failed my grammar tests before i turned into an engineer
The huckleberry approach is a very good idea and sure would've been a bit easier, but the route from avalanche lake to the col would only go if the avy conditions were just so. during the time we were in the area, the danger on wind loaded north facing slopes was not good. we wanted to stay on rock as much as possible. this very well maybe a new route up to FTD, it was well wind swept and thus had no avy danger. with so many deaths this winter due to avalanches in montana, we weren't about to become the next. i don't mean to sound like a jerk on this point, but Austin and I lost a friends to avalanches this year.
Your reasoning makes sense to me. I was surprised by how open the terrain is in the picture showing Island Lake in the background. In the summer, I've always trudged up the Phantom Creek trail, but in winter there's no trail anyway, so your route cuts off a couple miles of plateau travel.
It's a bummer the weather stopped you at the G/T col, but I can definately relate. That's where I turned back on my first go.
I really enjoyed your report, and the personification of the mountain. A nice contrast to the typical TR. At 52 years, my time to attempt this peak is getting closer. Not always being able to summit is a reality. Reading about others foiled attempts makes our own a little easier to swallow. What I fail to understand is how a fellow adventurer can read such a great summary and complain about the grammar or spelling! Poor guy just doesn't get it. I hope this comment doesn't violate the posting guidelines....
austin.timm - Apr 13, 2008 1:54 am - Voted 10/10
MovingI would say that is pretty close to reality and if I hadn't been there that your story would have given me a fair idea...
BeDrinkable - Apr 14, 2008 4:37 pm - Voted 10/10
nice.If i can compare that to my winter trips, that's a very peotic way of saying that you froze your balls off. I enjoyed that very much.
granitepeaker - Apr 14, 2008 7:02 pm - Voted 10/10
gpHaving climbed it six times in the summer I'd really like to give it a go next winter. I liked the poetic way your story was written ...
alpinedon - Apr 14, 2008 9:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Well doneNicely written.
iceworm - Apr 15, 2008 11:47 am - Hasn't voted
i'm not an english majorsorry for the numerous typos and stuff...i don't claim to be good at that stuff at all, always failed my grammar tests before i turned into an engineer
VincePoore - Apr 16, 2008 1:54 am - Voted 10/10
New ApproachSeems like you've pioneered a new approach: climbing up to FTD via Huckleberry. Was there a reason you didn't just continue up Huckleberry?
granitepeaker - Apr 16, 2008 2:07 pm - Voted 10/10
confusedI agree with VincePoore ... I was really confused on your approach
iceworm - Apr 18, 2008 6:04 pm - Hasn't voted
approachThe huckleberry approach is a very good idea and sure would've been a bit easier, but the route from avalanche lake to the col would only go if the avy conditions were just so. during the time we were in the area, the danger on wind loaded north facing slopes was not good. we wanted to stay on rock as much as possible. this very well maybe a new route up to FTD, it was well wind swept and thus had no avy danger. with so many deaths this winter due to avalanches in montana, we weren't about to become the next. i don't mean to sound like a jerk on this point, but Austin and I lost a friends to avalanches this year.
VincePoore - Apr 18, 2008 8:44 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: approachYour reasoning makes sense to me. I was surprised by how open the terrain is in the picture showing Island Lake in the background. In the summer, I've always trudged up the Phantom Creek trail, but in winter there's no trail anyway, so your route cuts off a couple miles of plateau travel.
It's a bummer the weather stopped you at the G/T col, but I can definately relate. That's where I turned back on my first go.
Keep at it and thanks for a great trip report.
Alan Ellis - Apr 21, 2008 9:41 am - Hasn't voted
Very nice TRThanks for sharing.
AE
ricksteven - Jun 6, 2009 9:43 am - Voted 10/10
Ditto, NiceTRI really enjoyed your report, and the personification of the mountain. A nice contrast to the typical TR. At 52 years, my time to attempt this peak is getting closer. Not always being able to summit is a reality. Reading about others foiled attempts makes our own a little easier to swallow. What I fail to understand is how a fellow adventurer can read such a great summary and complain about the grammar or spelling! Poor guy just doesn't get it. I hope this comment doesn't violate the posting guidelines....