Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
46.52047°N / 12.00858°E |
Route Type:
|
Sport Climbing |
Season:
|
Spring, Summer |
|
Time Required:
|
Half a day |
|
Rock Difficulty:
|
5.12d (YDS) |
|
Difficulty:
|
6c |
|
Number of Pitches:
|
6 |
|
Grade:
|
VII |
|
Overview
Sport climbing route in Cortina d'Ampezzo along the southwest face of Mount Lagazuoi. The top features of the itinerary include vertical lengths on solid slab and two overhanging athletic moves. It features a technical and fast paced climb, always on the move on magnificent rock.
Getting There
From the large yard of the Lagazuoi cable car terminal, you will start ascending along the ski slope up to the foot of the grey slab, which lies exactly below the line of the cable car wires. Once you get there, you will spot on the right-hand side, close to a huge rock, the start of the route: you can see the signpost with the route's name and, just a couple of metres above it, an old piton.
Route Description
This climbing route on Mount Lagazuoi was opened by Mario Dibona Moro together with Andrea Bacchin.
Characteristics of the route
This six-pitch route stretches out on perfect, compact rock and is well equipped with good, safe bolts. The crux is very demanding, suitable for very experienced climbers. The route's grade is 6c max - with a few 6a moves. The route is entirely equipped with bolts.
L1 35m 5b Slab pitch with a small overhang and then a traverse towards the left. Be careful to actually turn left instead on continuing straight along an old bolt line.
L2 38m 6a/b Good, slightly sloping slab with a highly technical move a few metres above the belay. Halfway up on the pitch (you will find a piton with a cord), keep proceeding straight for a couple of metres and then turn right towards the belay.
L3 15m 6a+ Short pitch that goes past a roof which has good holds and is well equipped with protections.
L4 40m 6a/6a+ This pitch stretches out mostly on a slab and reaches a small ledge through a technical move on small holds. In order to reach the belay, you will have to pass a two-metre long scree.
L5 28m 6b+/6c The crux: a slab pitch with small handholds and almost no holds for the feet. A rope tied to a bolt may be useful, even though the protections are placed very close to one another. (When climbing with wet weather/on wet rocks, it is possible to avoid this pitch by turning right and going beyond the large rock on an easier path).
L6 40m 6a, a 6c/A0 move Difficult free climbing start on an overhang that can be overcome thanks to the first bolts, placed close to one another. The rest of the pitch is highly enjoyable, it switches multiple times between going rightwards and leftwards thus creating some friction on the rope: it is recommended to lengthen the quickdraws.
Essential Gear
14 quickdraws, some slings.