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chris_gouletRe: Ojos - Solo

chris_goulet

This man's determination is unbelievable. He's partially disabled with Guillain-Barre Syndrome. Both of his calf muscles and one ankle are non-functional.

Great to see you on SP, Dave, and congratulations!

(re-posted this reply because it got detached from davelim's Feb 7, 2008 post)
Posted Feb 10, 2014 5:32 am

jckArgentinian side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2013

jck

Made a high camp in the valley.
Started a little bit to early (alpine...) and met the first sunrays at about 6400 m. The headwall of summit piramide covered by very tricky snow (from about 6500 m), made the ascent a little bit more diffcult. Had to traverse from normal route more into Mike Dorse Direct variant.

Good but cold weather. Luckily almost no wind at all. A post-season trip was a good choice.

Climbed with Radek (brade) and Darek in 18 days unsupported roundtrip.
Posted May 8, 2013 4:53 pm

squickArgentinian Side - Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2012

squick

Climbed with a friend in a couple of days from Arenales BC. Apparently we were only the second team to be successful this season on the Argie side due to huge amounts of snow. When we did it there were large stretches of waist deep snow which made progress slow.
Posted Apr 20, 2012 7:54 am

Guillaume.CeyracArgentine side
Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2010

Guillaume.Ceyrac

Got there with Marcelo (RIP) from Catamarca and Martin from Buenos Aires. We made an amazing (and never attempted before) approaching route with Marcelo's Unimog (old 4x4 truck). Unfortunately, Martin and I finally did not reach the summit. Anyway, it was one of the most exciting adventure I've ever lived, within some of the most beautiful and remote landscapes you could ever dream of. 15 amazing days spent in the area.
Posted Sep 19, 2011 10:20 am

IdesChilean side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2011

Ides

Climbed from Tejos, started at 1:00 am. Reached the crater 7-8h later, where we had to stop for 1h to warm our feet, which were insensitive from the cold. We had been tramping in ankle-deep snow for 5 hours. There has been lots of snowfall this year, according to our guide Fernando.

Anyway, starting again at 10am, slow climb to the Chilean summit in 2h. Summiters additionally to me: Olivier Faivre and Fernando Opazo (guide). Great views from the summit. Interminable descent. Rested 1h in Tejos refuge before heading down to Atacama camp.
Posted Mar 8, 2011 9:24 am

monkeypikeArgentine Side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2011

monkeypike

Neil, Harriet, Arkaitz and Lisandro summitted in perfect weather and spent an hour on the summit before descending. We climbed via the normal route from a high camp at 5750m.

For Neil and Harriet this was one of five peaks climbed in the area (Viento, Ojos, Medusa, Cazadero, Nacimiento) in nine days. For info on these climbs look at our blog: www.pikesonhikes.blogspot.com
Posted Mar 4, 2011 10:28 am

gimpilatorThe Chilean Side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2011

gimpilator

I climbed this peak in 2 days with a great group of peakbaggers. It was very cold and very dusty but the rock climb at the top was not as hard as I expected.
Posted Jan 26, 2011 11:44 pm

chris_gouletRe: Ojos - Solo

chris_goulet

This man's determination is unbelievable. He's partially disabled with Guillain-Barre Syndrome. Both of his calf muscles and one ankle are non-functional.

Great to see you on SP, Dave, and congratulations!
Posted Dec 10, 2010 11:59 pm

TomekKRe: Ojos solo from Argetina

TomekK

Hi! it better to reply later than not at all;)
answers;)
1.yes
2.I climbed Aconcagua 10 days before, had good aclimatization
3.yes, all the way down. long and hard walk but I was in a hurry to climb Pissis;)
4.yes, apparently the other polish guy Pedro, did it month after me too.
hope u climbed it!
Posted Nov 4, 2010 5:07 pm

HellmuthStuvenRe: Ojos solo from Argetina

HellmuthStuven

Hello,
congratulations!!!

I am going solo and unsupported July 1th 2009.

1) Did you go up all the way from Arenal to the summit straight?

2) Would you like to tell me how you aclimatized?

3)AND did you really go from Arenal to Cazadero Grande in 15 hours? It is 54,5 km, according to my research. Or did you mean From Arenal to Aguas Calientes?

4) And only in 4 days from road to road???

I plan to aclimatize at Cazadero and Quemadito, before going up to the other camps.

Did you do it in winter or summer?

Greetings
Hellmuth Christian Stuven
hc@stuven.dk
Denmark
Posted Jun 5, 2009 7:25 am

HellmuthStuvenRe: Solo from the argentinian side

HellmuthStuven

Hello, I am going solo and unsupporte July 1th 2009.
Did you really climb it from road to road in just 4 days??????

I plan to aclimatize at Cazadero and Quemadito, before going up to the other camps.
Did you do it in winter or summer?

Greetings
Hellmuth Christian Stuven
hc@stuven.dk
Denmark
Posted Jun 5, 2009 7:19 am

TomekKOjos solo from Argetina  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 7, 2009

TomekK

Road to Road in 4 days, solo unsupported. From Arenal to Cazadero in 15 hours, it was a loooong and tiring day. Summit straight from Arenal by "normal" route. Two days later Pissis in 24h. Great Adventure!:)
Posted Jun 1, 2009 12:31 pm

PetroSolo from the argentinian side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2009

Petro

Similar to chris_goulet. I got by bike to Cazadero Grande and climbed the Ojos solo and unsupported (by the wide ridge on the right hand side of the glaciers). Climbed down by Mike Dorse Direct or a line close to it.
From Cazadero Grande to the summit and back to Cazadero Grande in 4 days.
Then continued to Copiapo by bike. Also a part of a longer trip.
Posted May 9, 2009 5:39 pm

mthomasNormal Route up Chilean Side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 14, 2006

mthomas

Spectacular weather on this climb after the normal climbing season. For the entire 10 days that we spent climbing in the area, the three of us (Sebastian Martinez from Aventurismo.cl, our driver Giglio, and me) were the only people in probably several hundred square kilometers, except for the three Chilean border guards. We didn't have any of the high winds that typically curtail many of the attempts.
Posted Mar 1, 2009 12:15 pm

CBakwinyo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2008

CBakwin

I tried this the 12th from ¨Puerto laguna negra, but ran outta steam (15km each way) at 6,100m, so moved to the ¨base camp ¨at the base of the snow bowl. summitted the next day , the worst weather of the week, in high winds and ground blizzards. What a slog, very long skree ridge then the usual ¨heartbreaker¨the last little scre slope, but worth every effort. Very nice peak, even if it took two days on mules to get in there,. The whole area really deserves much more time than I gave it, have to come back soon. 6 hrs 40 min up, 2 1/2 hrs down
Posted Feb 20, 2008 6:01 pm

davelimOjos - Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2005

davelim

So there we have it - plodding and cramponing up some wind slab on a windy day - a nice, but mentally tough solo of Ojos Del Salado. 2nd attempt after the first was thwarted by deep snow and strong winds on Jan 18th. Left camp ( 5700m?) at 430am and reached the summit at 230 -245pm. Wicked 60-80km/h winds at the top - could barely stand. Local expert Jonson reynoso claimed my ascent was the 3rd solo - who knows?

My website at http://www.everest.org.sg - scroll the bar onthe left till you get to the 2005 expedition
Posted Feb 7, 2008 12:36 am

LSOjos in snow  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 21, 2008

LS

Together with Erik K, I reached the summit of Ojos after 10 hours, a never ending struggle in sometimes deep snow. One of my hardest days ever in high altitudes.....

Read the entire trip-report here:
www.distantpeak.com/cms/story/192/ojos-del-salado
Posted Feb 5, 2008 7:47 pm

ArioArgentinian Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2008

Ario

summited with fellow Alpine Club of Canada (Montreal Section) member Nicolai. He left @ 4:15 am and I followed @ 5:20 am and we reached the summit together @ 4:00 pm after a day of struggle with the fresh powder snow (10 to 50 cm) that had completly recovered the route. Weather was good with only winds during the descent.
Posted Jan 26, 2008 1:23 pm

FrançoisJNormal route Chile  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2008

FrançoisJ

Sabrina, Tatiana, Eduardo and I summited Ojos del Salado (jan 2nd 2008).
We classically reached west "chilean" summit from Tejos. Then downclimbed east side of the breach between west "chilean" summit and east "argentinian" summit, very easy 2 meters grade I, traversed fifteen meters to the minibreach, climbed the miniwall (2-3 m, II) and walked up to east "argentinian" summit and back.
Technically easy but watch out for loose rocks.
Great day, some clouds, quite warm and not windy for the area and height...
Many thanks to Tatiana and Eduardo, info@nasqa.com
Posted Jan 21, 2008 5:38 am

BergrotRe: Route Climbed: Argentinian, east face Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2005

Bergrot

Corax: Who was first in soloing Ojos?

It's interesting that within 4 months three climbers soloed from the Argentinian side. I think, the unofficial rating we three do, is based on informations from Jonson Reynoso in Fiambala. He told me that a guy from Salta (Argentina) was the first and only who tried it before. But he told me no name and year.

By the way, during the first attempt on the Argentinian side (1968?), the Austrian Hias Rebitsch arrived the summit also alone, because his team member wasn't able to climb higher than their last camp at 6200 or 6400m. In the way some people understand soloing, it was also a solo.

In December 2005 another Austrian mountain guide did the way from Chorro to the summit and return in 4 or 5 days, solo. I met him before his start in Fiambala.

With the excellent information on this website mainly provided by Corax the trip is much easier than few years ago, where nearly no info on the Argentinean Puna was available. Many thanks for this.
Posted Jun 22, 2006 1:02 pm

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