Olymbos (Olympus) Climber's Log

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abotzios - Jul 5, 2005 5:55 am

Route Climbed: Gortsia - Muses Plateau - Mytikas Peak - Prionia Date Climbed: 2nd July 2005  Sucess!

We commenced our climb from Gortsia (or Diastavrosi as the locals know it) at 11:00 in the middle of a heat wave (37 degrees Celsius in Litohoro). The trek up to the Muses Plateau is a steady uphill climb where one is rewarded by magnificent views of the area (compared to the Prionia - Mytikas peak route that runs along the gorge and therefore has a restricted view of the area).



The trek along the Laimos ridge (after roughly 5 hours walk) is spectacular and it is easy to cross the Yiossos pass via either the cable on the rock face (for the more adventurous!!) or by the path around the face.



There is plenty of space for camping on the Muses Plateau, just make sure that you find a space as proteced from the wind as possible as it can get quite windy overnight!!!



The climb to Mytikas is not difficult, although one must be steady and careful during the ascent and descent (beware of falling rocks from inexperienced or careless climbers!!!).

Nikolas_A

Nikolas_A - Feb 10, 2004 9:55 am

Route Climbed: Prionia - Refuge A Date Climbed: October 1998

I went by train with two friends. We walked to Litochoro and took a taxi to Prionia. We climbed up to the (closed) Refuge A. We camped outside and next morning headed to Skolio. A storm made us turn back, so we got back to the tents, packed, descended to Prionia and to Litochoro through the Enipeas gorge.

Nikolas_A

Nikolas_A - Feb 10, 2004 3:49 am

Route Climbed: Gortsia - Muses plateau - Mytikas Date Climbed: January 2000

Me and 9 friends bivied out of the (closed) Refuge D. The plan was to follow the trail to the Muses plateau, stay in Refuge C and climb ice routes the following day.



Next morning we walked the road to Gortsia and started on the trail. Short after Barba a member of the group had proplems with her stomach, so she and her bf turned back. Due to the poor snow quality at the base and the wight of the climbing gear we were making slow progress. After Stragos, we decided to take the left branch (Anathema) to make up the time.



That steep section took its toll on one of the other climbers, who had a medical history with his knee. It soon started giving him trouble, and his pace slowed down. When we got to the Skourta ridgeline, he and 3 others were at least 30mins behind and the temperature at -10°C. We could barely see the refuge from this point, the sun was setting and the temperature falling fast.



As the "Giosos' pass" was ahead, we had to wait to see if he was up to it. By the time he and the other 3 got to us we were already freezing, so we were quite releived to hear that he wanted to turn back. We reversed the route, and after 17 hours of non-stop walking we were back to our cars

Nikolas_A

Nikolas_A - Feb 9, 2004 3:59 pm

Route Climbed: Gortsia - Muses plateau - Mytikas Date Climbed: Summer og 1998  Sucess!

In a party of 10 I climbed from Gortsia to the Muses plateau were we pitced our tends. Next day we climbed Mytikas, Stefani, Toumba and Profitis Ilias. The third day we descended through Refuge A to Prionia and camped halfway down the Enipeas' gorge. The fourth day we completed the route down to Litochoro.

Nikolas_A

Nikolas_A - Feb 9, 2004 3:52 pm

Route Climbed: Prionia - Summit - Prionia - Enipeas gorge Date Climbed: Summer of 1996  Sucess!

I climbed with two friends up to Refuge A and camped outside. The next day we summited Mytikas & Profitis Ilias and returned to the tent. The third day we descended to Prionia and walked Enipeas' dorge down to Litochoro.

Nikolas_A

Nikolas_A - Feb 3, 2004 10:02 am

Route Climbed: Gortsa - Mouses Plateau - Prionia - Enipeas - Litochoro Date Climbed: July 2002

I camped at Gortsa with my girfriend Friday night.

Saturday morning we ascended to the Mouses plateau (in hard rain from Petrostrouga and up). We camped on the plateau and I spend most of the night counting the time between lightning and thunder...

The rain had stopped the next morning but we didn't go for the summit because the Mytikas' colouir is dangerous when wet. We descended to Prionia, got into Enipeas gorge and camped. Monday morning we continued down the gorge to Litochoro and caught the bus home

Nikolas_A

Nikolas_A - Jan 27, 2004 4:38 pm

Route Climbed: Vryssopoules - Agios Antonis - Skolio -Skala - Sparmos Monastery Date Climbed: March 23-25 1996  Sucess!

From the military installation in Vrysopouless we climbed Agios Antonis (2815m), Skolio (2904m), Skala (2880m). We descended through Mavratzorema gorge to Sparmos Monastery

Nikolas_A

Nikolas_A - Jan 27, 2004 4:24 pm

Route Climbed: Gortsa - Mouses Plateau - Prionia Date Climbed: July 21-23 1995

The first time I climbed Olympus. Me, my sister and two friends, arrived Friday night and camped at the beach Litohoro's beach at the foot of Olympus. Saturday morning ascended from Gortsa to the muses plateau. We didn't go for the summit as the Mytikas coloir was crowded and rock fall danger was high. Sunday we descended to Prionia

Pelasgian - Sep 14, 2003 12:43 pm

Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 12 September 2003  Sucess!

I hiked from the beautiful town of Litohoro through the Enipeas gorge to the first refuge on day one.



Day two I summited Mitkas in about 3 hours. On my 29th birthday!



As I reached the top the clouds closed in.



A worthwile experience, the gods still live there!



PelasgianCS

vbeckman74

vbeckman74 - Sep 13, 2003 7:27 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 03  Sucess!

I did it with my wife in 11 hours round trip. It truly is beautiful. It is not as sparsely vegetated as I thought it would be at the bottom. There is a little scramble at the top to Myticas, but you don't need a rope in the summer. You should be comfortable with a little exposure, however. Litochoro is a gem of a town. I wish we had a couple more days to hang out there.

athpal

athpal - Jul 25, 2003 8:31 am

Route Climbed: Diastavrossi-Skourta ridge-Mousson plateau-Mitikas Couloir Date Climbed: 25 March 1981  Sucess!

It was my first ascent of the mountain (I was at the age of 16). We followed one of the longest route.We needed 2 days to complete our ascent. The first day we followed the snowy footpath from Diastavrossi, we reached the Skourta peak and continued to the Mousson plateau (mousson means clios) via the Skourta ridge. Before the plateau there was (and there is also) a fixed wire rope in a point wich we called "Yossos jump". The wire rope is placed in a small rock field which is dangerous in winter with snow. We spent the night in the refuge "Yossos Apostolidis". The next day we woke up early (about 4 o'clock a.m.), roped up, traversed the peak Stefani (or Zeus' throne - it looks like god's throne) and we reached the summit Mitikas via the Mitikas Couloir (40 - 45 degrees in the exit-it depends on the snow fall). For the descent we reversed the route.

Avalanche risk exists in the traverse of Stefani and the Mitikas' couloirl.

The Olympus is a magnificent Greek mountain ideal for all seasons and most of the mountain activities such as hiking, climbing, mountaineering ski etc.

drorfid

drorfid - May 30, 2003 2:36 am

Route Climbed: lotohoro - prionia - skala - mytikas Date Climbed: october 97  Sucess!

i did it alone. a beautiful experience. the crossing of skala was a bit scary without a rope, there was some ice on the rocks, and exposure to the east side at some places.

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