Pala di San Martino is one of the most important mountains of Pale di San Martino Group. It lies in the central sector of the Group, between Cima Immink and Cima delle Scarpe, and commands Val di Roda with its imposing mass. It falls in every side with wonderful and extremely difficult walls, gone up by a lot of beatiful routes : the W wall, the most famous, visible from San Martino di Castrozza, the N wall, that falls over Ghiacciaio della Pala, the E wall, that commands the high Val Pradidali, and the S wall, in front of Cima Immink. Wonderful also its pillars, particularly the NW and SW ones.
The first ascent had done by M. Bettega, A. Dimai, S. Siorpaes, J. Meurer and A. Pallavicini in 1878, going up from the Glacier along the N side. Among the other routes, we must indicate that one opened by B. Zagonel, A. Tavernaro and O. Schuster along the NW edge, the wonderful routes of G. Langes and E. Merlet along the " Great Pillar " of SW, the route of E. Solleder and F. Kummer along the N wall, those one by F. Simon and F. Wiessner and by E. Castiglioni and V. Bramani along the E face, and the route by G. Pisoni and G. Leonardi along the W wall.
The normal route goes up along the NE ridge, that connects Pala di San Martino to the Altopiano, and it's quite difficult ( 2nd and 3rd degree ) with some problems of orienteering. You must start from Rosetta Hut m 2581 and go in the direction of Cima delle Scarpe, reaching the near elevation 2831. From here you go down to the saddle where the ridge begins. The difficulties are all in the traverse of this ridge that leads to the real mass of the summit. You must traverse five rocky towers, with very exposed crossings and quite difficult up-and-down along walls that lead with some problems in finding the right route ( it's possible that in these last years the route has been marked with signals, ask for info! ) to the final and easy summit cap, where there is a very very useful bivouac.
TIMES OF RANGE : Rosetta Hut m 2581 - start of the route = h 1.30
Start of the route - summit = h 3.00
DROPS : Rosetta Hut - start of the route = 220 m
Start of the route - Summit = 180 m
To reach Rosetta Hut you have to go to Trento or Belluno, by train or by car, and go up to San Martino di Castrozza. Here you can take the cableways that in few minutes take you up to a little under the top of Cima Rosetta. From here in ten minutes of walking you arrive to Rosetta Hut.
This ascent is not very difficult, but you must take with you the gear for high mountain, because, in case of worsing of the weather, this mountain can become a trap. Fortunately there is the bivouac on the top, but you must consider that you are near 3000 meters of altitude! For the climbing, rope, friends and nuts. Take info about the conditions of the mountain, don't go up with ice!
SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA : CAMPING SASS MAOR
via Laghetto, 48
38058 San Martino di Castrozza ( TN )
TONADICO : CAMPING CASTELPIETRA
loc. Castelpietra, 1
38054 Tonadico ( TN )
e-mail : [email protected]
IMER : CAMPING CALAVISE
Villaggio Sass Maòr, 36
38050 Imèr ( TN )