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Palinuro - la Molpa
Mountain/Rock

Palinuro - la Molpa

 
Palinuro - la Molpa

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Salerno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.02977°N / 15.30114°E

Object Title: Palinuro - la Molpa

County: Campania - Cilento

Activities: Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 459 ft / 140 m

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Jun 22, 2008 / Jul 13, 2008

Object ID: 414271

Hits: 4410 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

South of Salerno (about 100km S of Naples) there is a not much known natural park named "Parco Naturale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano" : this is a wild land, with some very small towns joyned by narrow roads that give access to one of the best sea shore of the whole Italy; in the inland hikers and mountain bikers can find here a net of about 300km of marked paths to be run in winter, spring and autumn days : avoid summer ... too hot !

About 50 years ago here was built the first sea club that became the reference point for all the vacation villages : the Meditarranee Club; some 20 years ago the structure was abandoned and the land became less frequented so that could keep its wilderness : here you can find wild beaches accessible both by the see (very suggestive) and from the land, across some more or less comfortable and steep paths.

The wildest range (the best) is the one surrounding Palinuro, starting from its harbour and ending to the Arco Naturale (East of the Arco the beach becomes a "commercial" land good for standard summer tourists)

On the S side of Capo Palinuro, East of the Lambro river, at the eastern border of the "Marinella" beach, a cliff, more than 800m wide, rises for some 120 metres directly from some small creeks or from the sea (here very clean and perfect for swimming and snorkeling).

On this cliffs some tens (I think about 50) routes on fantastic dolomitic rock : most are monopitches but some get the meadows on the high border.
No easy route : the easiest is a 6a (5.9), most are stronger : 7a-7b-7c (up to 5.12), some are well equipped, some require to put new or further protections ...

La Molpa
 
the Cliff of la Molpa
 
The Molpa cliff
 
The Molpa cliff
 


really a rock climber paradise !!

Getting There

Highway from Rome to Naples - Salerno - exit Eboli
Follow along the SS 18 and signs will lead you along the not always easy to find road
here a road map - click on the button to get the detail

 
The Molpa
 
 
The Cliffs of la Molpa
 
Once in Palinuro, at the roundabout, you must choose the ascending road following sign for "Marinella",
some hundreds meters after, at a fork, turn to the left and to the left again along a very narrow road leading to a small car-parking :

here, on foot, in a few minutes along a very good path, to the beach

... now toward left, cross the river and follow a hidden path that, through the wood, leads to a the ruins where you can see the creeks.

Red Tape

the area is a natural park but the only required behaviour is to be civil

Accomodations

lot of comfortable and cheap structures :
- hotels
- villages (very good)
- camping places (very good)

food here is one of the main attractions !!!!

some photos of the routes

routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
routes on la Molpa cliff
 
this is not a guide ...
using a red arrow
I've pointed out the rows of spits
giving an idea about the routes

no need to describe them,
just start and try !

climbing pics

Climbing in la Molpa
 
Rock climbing on the cliff
 
the Cliff
 

links

National park of Cilento - index
protected area
itineraries

Images