so you tried this classic eh? I thought the rock was really loose on the first 20 feet of this route (right of a semi-detached block, easy terrain) but got better higher. In fact, I remember the thin crack crux of the 1st pitch to be solid as was the remainder of this pitch? Second pitch is 5.7 runout choss - though again, the 5.9 crack near the top is solid enough. Good times.
I thought the rock was deplorable. The thin crack crux has some fun moves but the danger to yourself and your belayer didn't seem worth it to me. We didn't do the second pitch 'cause the rock didn't seem to be getting any better. Take care if you try this route.