Aconcagua Unassisted. Stupid?

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Jason.

 
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Aconcagua Unassisted. Stupid?

by Jason. » Sun Mar 06, 2016 10:37 pm

Greetings SummitPost brothers and sisters,
I'm hoping to solicit an opinion from you fine folks regarding my plan for Aconcagua. I'll try to be brief.

I have some climbing experience, some hiking experience, and some decent outdoorsy experience. That said, I've probably never been above 4000m so Aconcagua would be my first big mountain.

Ideally, I'd like to try the mountain in the first week of January. This gives me 300 days to train and get comfortable with my gear. At the moment, I'm living in Bogotá so there are lots of peaks to practice on.

However, I'd really, really like to summit Aconcagua without guides or mules. So my question is: am I cracked? This is where you come in you experienced, wizened, wisdomful ones. Do you think this can be done, assuming I've got a good head on my shoulders and take every precaution?

If so, I'd love to pick your brain about gear too.

Cheers!
Jason.

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herdbull

 
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Re: Aconcagua Unassisted. Stupid?

by herdbull » Thu Mar 10, 2016 6:21 pm

yes it can be done. don't know how much fun it would be. It would be a pretty good trek with a loaded pack if you could even get all of your gear in one pack. Plus it's hot & dry and can be blazing hot if it's clear and sunny. When I was there temps were in the 80's both days while trekking to Mulas. I think it's something like 18 miles from the park entrance to Mulas. Not saying it can't be done as there was 1 guy there doing just that when I was there. Can't imagine wearing double boots, with a huge loaded pack for 18 miles in 80 degree heat. But hey if you're up for it....

Going solo presents some challenges in that you need to carry everything you need for the whole trip. You don't have a partner to break things up with. I mean this stuff adds up in a hurry. 4-season mountaineering tent, 0 degree bag, closed cell pad, air mattress, mountaineering double boots, crampons, gaiters, 2 pair of heavy socks, 3 pair of trekking socks, trekking boots, camp shoes, ice axe, helmet goggles/glasses, trekking poles, camera/smartphone/ solar panel? main stove, back up stove (you're done if your stove quits) pot to melt snow in, some sort of water filtration as snow at camp 1 was terribly dirty, fuel and many fuel canisters, cup or mug, 2-3 pairs of gloves for all conditions, duffel(s) to stash gear when doing gear hauls, (3) 1-liter wattle bottles, water bottle insulators or they will freeze on summit day and at night, 3-4 layers on lower body, 3-4 layers upper body, rain gear, food.... holy moly, dehydrated or not it adds up, a lighter weight puffy, eating utensil, lighter(s), something to haul snow in back to camp to melt.... I'm sure I left out a ton of stuff as this was all from memory.

I strongly and highly recommend using a service provider for mules. it will make your trip way more enjoyable and easier. At the time there was a discount on the permit if you used any service provided by a registered guide. It helped offset the fees for mules. I went solo and paid INKA to get most of my gear to base camp. With that comes the use of their outhouses, all the water you can drink and other useful info in regards to things like conditions, weather and other general info. They sold me a bed in one of the bunk houses for $15/night when I didn't feel like setting up a tent. They and others also provide internet for a fee and you can find some pretty good food there as well as showers. The food is kind of pricey but well worth it. You could even buy a bag lunch for the hike out after your climb. 18 miles out is kind of a long day after what you just did for the past few weeks. So the extra sandwiches and real food was nice. I've heard it called the second largest base camp in the world next to Everest.

While I went solo I was never really alone on the mtn. If you're planning on going during the normal climbing season especially during high season there are people everywhere. If something serious were to happen even at the upper camps there are typically people within ear shot. I felt safe and confident that if something were to happen I wouldn't be alone for days on end until someone came along. Also seeing as you need somewhat of a good weather window you will more than likely be sharing summit day or the attempt with a lot of other people.


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