Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Alpine options for 4 days in the Cascades

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
 

Alpine options for 4 days in the Cascades

Postby twicken2 » Sun Jul 10, 2011 4:20 am

I will have 4 days (9/1-9/5) to climb in Washington. The current plan is the Ptarmigan Traverse N to S w/ a couple summits along the way, but I'd like to look into backcountry options with better alpine rock. Comfortable with loooong approaches, glacier travel, AI2/3, and leading alpine rock to 5.9. Any suggestions for a 4 day itinerary?

Thanks
User Avatar
twicken2

 
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 5:46 am
Location: Campbell, California, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Alpine options for 4 days in the Cascades

Postby twicken2 » Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:47 pm

Thanks for the response, twoshuzz! We are considering the complete N Ridge of Stuart or NE Butt on Goode.. Those routes on Dragontail look amazing!
User Avatar
twicken2

 
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 5:46 am
Location: Campbell, California, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Alpine options for 4 days in the Cascades

Postby Wastral » Sun Jul 24, 2011 10:26 am

4 days gets you N. Ridge Goode along with Logan and depending on super fine weather and your speed you might get Black as well. You would really have to move though.

If you want decent rock and 5.8 climbing, then climb N Goode mountain. Its sub summit.

4 days gets you Buck, Liberty cap, Fortress, Chiwawa, 7Finger Jack and Maude. That is if you really move. All of those are class 3 or lower.

4 days gets you Redoubt and N. Face Bear mountain from Canada side in perfect weather. More likely is N. Face Bear 5.9 only if you are lucky. Or change that for Redoubt and Spickard along with pt 8800+. Though that late you will have Serious bergshrund problems and without great difficulty probably makes Spickard unattainable by the classic N. side glacier route that is quite beautiful.

I do hope those 4 days do not include travel time, but rather time after travel. Otherwise you had better choose a single/double summit.

4 days gets the ptarmigan traverse as you stated under ideal conditions. Takes 2 cars unless you modify it. 1) go in from Lake Chelan and out Lake Chelan, though if you do this, ditch the 1st have of ptarmigan traverse and head directly for Gunsight and its granite along with Agnes, Sinister, Dome, Spire, and White Rock Lakes. If you are really moving you may nab LeConte peak as well a beautiful peak rarely climbed.
Wastral

 
Posts: 329
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:02 pm
Location: Washington, United States
Thanked: 25 times in 21 posts


Return to Pacific Northwest (WA, OR)

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.