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Alpine/trad climbing in Japan

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Asia. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Asia Climbing Partners section.

Alpine/trad climbing in Japan

Postby Misha » Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:24 am

I may be going to Japan for a couple of weeks in late October. Are there any worthwhile alpine/mountaineering objectives? Something with moderate rock (up to 5.10) will be best. Is late October too late to climb there? Any advice will be appreciated!
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Postby livenbig » Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:36 pm

The Japanese alps are amazing mountains from what I saw watching the winter olympics. Google Nagano.

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Postby Scott » Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:05 pm

I haven't been there so can't help much, but since no one else has answered with info, the book World Mountaineering (by Salkeld) has a section on Yari-Ga Take and the climbing there. More than likely you can find the book in your local library.
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Postby Iainhw » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:47 am

Late oct is a good time to head into the japanese mtns as not many folks around and skies are clearer than summer mths. If you're on your own I would aim to do the Yari Hodaka traverse (start point Kamikochi), it's basically a fun 3 day scramble on some of japan's biggest and most impressive mtns. If you have a partner/are a competent alpine soloist you could spice it up a little by:
- Starting it by taking the n ridge of yari route, although maybe expensive for you to get to start of route due to remoteness.
- Starting/finishing on myo jin san
- Including an ascent of mae hodaka north east ridge.
Unfortunately there are no english alpine/rock climbing guides. If you are willing to buy a japanese one, i'll later post a amazon link.
Other big (3000m ish)peaks that offer rock routes are Kita dake (n buttress), Hodaka, Tsurugi dake and nearer to tokyo Aka dake in the yatsu ga take range.
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