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Bailing due to impending bad weather.

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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby Vitaliy M. » Sat Aug 18, 2012 2:50 am

The Japanese threw a bag of shit at you? Would pay to see it.
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby ScottyP » Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:22 am

Turned around above 20k on Aco. Storm killed five! Ego gets you hurt or...
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby Vitaliy M. » Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:32 am

I don't see why it is such a big deal to turn around. If weather sucks for summit bid (while on a major expedition) just wait for a better window. Bring enough food and stay in high camp til you get the window...
Climbing into storms is reckless to say the least.
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby Kahuna » Sat Aug 18, 2012 6:23 am

The Japanese threw a bag of shit at you?


No VM.

Go get on the Dihedral Wall VM (you do know where that is right?), spend the night at or below the P6 anchor, look up and see what is located directly above you some 1000', you will then understand what happened.


Never mind VM. I have to remind myself of the source when trying to explain such things....
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby Vitaliy M. » Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:57 am

Yea Dihedral wall looks fun. Maybe next year if I pull on gear more often and buy a ledge. Walls take a lot of time and dedication with partners. My usual partners do not have flexible schedules, and climbing with new people is not as enjoyable as with friends for me.
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby Kahuna » Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:06 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote: Walls take a lot of time and dedication with partners. My usual partners do not have flexible schedules, and climbing with new people is not as enjoyable as with friends for me.


Excuses, excuses....

If you really had a pair, you'd get on it solo. I thought you said you were a Wall Monkey?

Guess not.
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby Vitaliy M. » Sun Aug 19, 2012 12:52 am

A5RP wrote:
Vitaliy M. wrote: Walls take a lot of time and dedication with partners. My usual partners do not have flexible schedules, and climbing with new people is not as enjoyable as with friends for me.


Excuses, excuses....

If you really had a pair, you'd get on it solo. I thought you said you were a Wall Monkey?

Guess not.


Never said I was a wall monkey. If I had a pair I would get on it solo? hahaha. Who the hell would I yell at? Walls are stressful. On the other hand, if you had a pair, you would do it in a push. 1L of water and 40 GU packets. Only if you had a pair though.
Seriously though, I am not much of a wall climber. So far done 2 grade Vs. Goldline and Lost Arrow Spire Direct. Liked LASD a lot, so maybe will do a few more walls and see how much I like it, or not.
At the moment I am super happy with freeing Beckey Chouinard on South Howser tower in 18 hours Applebee to Applebee camp while splitting leads. This was a climb I desired to do the most for the last year or so. Did 6 other alpine routes on the trip as well, but none like B-C.
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby Burchey » Fri Aug 31, 2012 7:38 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:Never said I was a wall monkey. If I had a pair I would get on it solo? hahaha. Who the hell would I yell at? Walls are stressful. On the other hand, if you had a pair, you would do it in a push. 1L of water and 40 GU packets. Only if you had a pair though.
Seriously though, I am not much of a wall climber. So far done 2 grade Vs. Goldline and Lost Arrow Spire Direct. Liked LASD a lot, so maybe will do a few more walls and see how much I like it, or not.
At the moment I am super happy with freeing Beckey Chouinard on South Howser tower in 18 hours Applebee to Applebee camp while splitting leads. This was a climb I desired to do the most for the last year or so. Did 6 other alpine routes on the trip as well, but none like B-C.


You're a disgrace.

On original topic - couple guys set a slackline up between the N/S summits on Matthes a couple weeks ago, thunder and darkness all around but not on top of them. We didn't stick around to see the show.
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Re: Bailing due to impending bad weather.

Postby MoapaPk » Fri Aug 31, 2012 11:12 pm

Back to subject at hand. I'm not a climber, nor do I play one on TV. Reprise from SP several years back.
http://hwstock.org/mumhard9/

A rare day, when gong on was safer than a retreat.
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