Boots for Aconcagua

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fatboy

 
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Boots for Aconcagua

by fatboy » Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:03 pm

Will be in Argentina in Jan 2010. I was thinking about getting the La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX boot for this climb. I am trying to avoid the double plastics. What do you think about this boot or are there any other suggestions. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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divnamite

 
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Re: Boots for Aconcagua

by divnamite » Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:31 pm

fatboy wrote:Will be in Argentina in Jan 2010. I was thinking about getting the La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX boot for this climb. I am trying to avoid the double plastics. What do you think about this boot or are there any other suggestions. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I don't have those boots, so I can't commend on them. I had double plastic (Scapa Inverno), and on summit day, my feet were a little cold on the polish traverse. Not sure how warm single boots can be. Also, the route is mostly scree, my plastic boots got beat/scratch up, not sure how leather boots will stand up to that. Good luck!

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Maranna

 
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by Maranna » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:41 pm

I used the La Sportiva Nuptse with success on Aconcuga last year. I have switched out the liners with Intuition liners.

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by fish4dinner » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:34 pm

i climb it feb 08 and used scapa inverno( regular route) and love my boots they took alot of punishment and kept on going i'm looking to sell them the size is 10.5

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Brad Marshall

 
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Re: Boots for Aconcagua

by Brad Marshall » Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:15 am

fatboy wrote:Will be in Argentina in Jan 2010. I was thinking about getting the La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX boot for this climb. I am trying to avoid the double plastics. What do you think about this boot or are there any other suggestions. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


Is there a specific reason why you're trying to avoid doubles? I've always climbed the Polish Routes wearing Koflach Verticals with Intuition liners. They weigh about the same as the Nepals which I also have. I wouldn't wear Nepals on Aco because I wouldn't want to take such a gamble for all the cost and time I put in to it just to end up with frozen toes. The choice is yours but last season my feet were quite cold on the Polish Direct.

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TYeary

 
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by TYeary » Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:45 am

La Sportiva Spantik.

http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/296

Happy trails,

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fatboy

 
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by fatboy » Fri Sep 11, 2009 11:04 am

I did have major problems with Koflach on Mt. Rainier and with the Scarpa Inverno on Orizaba. I did summit both of these and the guides and fellow climbers gave me all kinds of tips (sock combinations and Lacing) with no success. Summited Mt. Rainier a second time with a La Sportiva Leather(not sure of the model)but it felt great. I like the La Sportiva Spantik idea and also have been looking at the new Sportiva Baruntse. I just didnt know if Sportivas best leather was enough boot for Aconcauga (better not take the chance). Thanks for everbodys help.

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Woodie Hopper

 
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by Woodie Hopper » Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:22 pm

Another vote here for Nuptse's.

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William Marler

 
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by William Marler » Sat Sep 12, 2009 5:50 am

Fantasize about wearing something like Nepals on Aconcagua. But I will still go with my Koflach double boots. Seen too many black toes (frostbite not bruises) over the years with people even when warm wearing double boots Scarpas and Koflach and still catching a bad cold year. Not worth the risk in my opinion. But I hear you. I would love to wear a light weight boot. The scree sure does a number on boots racing down the slopes after a carry. Something to consider as they are not cheap and would want them to last more than one trip.

Looks like I may be down early December this year. But I won't get excited till I get my plane ticket in my hand. (•:
Cheers William
Last edited by William Marler on Fri Sep 25, 2009 4:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Pyroman9

 
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by Pyroman9 » Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:26 pm

I am going on dec 7 to dec 30th.

This topic is very interesting because i have nepal evo gtx boots... I am still debating on changing them... i really prefer not to because of money... but man am i considering it...

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TYeary

 
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by TYeary » Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:31 am

The EVO gtx boots would be ok as long as you get lucky with the weather.
If it gets cold, and it usually does, then you stand a far greater chance of losing toes or incuring some kind of cold injury. Doubles are the way to go unless you are very fast and lucky. Think of it as about 40 dollars a toe. That equals a pair boots for 400 dollars. A good investment, IMO.
Tony

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Hotoven

 
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by Hotoven » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:08 pm

I would get doubles, but thats me, my toes get cold fast, even with doubles.

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CBakwin

 
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by CBakwin » Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:04 pm

I wore some boots I can best describe as sort of snowshoeing boots. They were cheap, lightweight pacs sort of, with a bit more structure. Just don't let the rangers see them because at the time, I think double plastic boots were required. No problems with cold feet.

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fatboy

 
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by fatboy » Fri Sep 25, 2009 3:22 pm

Thanks for everbodys input and suggestions. I broke down and bought the Spantiks (Ouch) not my feet but my billfold. I bought a size 45(to tight) returned for 46 which feels just fine. After slipping on these boots my first impression was I had just traded in my 1995 Dodge Dakota for a 2010 Lexus but we will see when they are put to the test. My main problem comming from the East Coast is I cant get any in store fittings or help. Thanks again because this is where I go for help. I believe I am the only person in my area doing any Mountaineering they are all on ATVs

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JHH60

 
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by JHH60 » Fri Sep 25, 2009 3:57 pm

You could just come out west for another summit and buy boots while here - IIRC I saw Spatniks and Scarpa 6000s in stock at both the Fifth Season in Shasta, CA and Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford WA. At any rate I'd be interested to hear how the Spantiks hold up. The look beautiful but also look like they are designed for maximum performance at the expense of durability, kinda like the LS Trangos (which I like a lot but which I am now looking at replacing after three seasons).

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