Conclusion for those of you interested in a trip to the Canadian Rockies or Bugaboos in 2012 and on.
September. The best month, on average the past 12 years, to come get some serious climbing done in the Canadian Rockies. Days are shorter, but the conditions have been drier and more stable almost every year it seems like, when compared to August. This Sept thus far has been perhaps the best month since I have been climbing the area to hop on some long north face routes.
Personally I damaged an MCL falling into a crevasse over three weeks ago. After two weeks of gym rehab, I have gotten back out on rock routes and scrambles but have missed some of the more spectacular weather and stable conditions I have ever seen. Even though I personally got out plenty, there was lots of bitching going on back in August regarding safe conditions on big alpine routes. None of that could be said for September to date. The weather and stablitly has been nothing short of spectacular. The few alpine solo speed records I hold were all set in previous Septembers when folks had completely vacated popular objectives like Assiniboine. Obviously I have found prime conditions in recent years in September as well.
Due to the knee injury, I have done modest day routes like free soloing the 16 pitch 5.6 Guides Route on EEOR, simul climbing the 12 pitch 5.8 Fold (photo below) on Mt. Kidd or putting in multiple peak scramble days. I am just gimping around getting exercise finishing out the season before returning to the desert and possibly knee surgery.
My advice? Start hedging your trips more into September than August. I believe this is becoming a solid weather trend. Until ice season.